Scary travel moments
In more than a half century, one is bound to have some scary travel moments. The good news is, despite visits to some 60 countries, I have never had a true near-death experience (nor witnessed one). But I’ve had my share of accidents, sickness, and frightening tales. This is a recount of a dozen that come to mind. Some of these might seem tame (I’m not an adrenaline-seeking adventurist), but we all have things that give us a scare. So, here goes.
Stopped by military with machine guns outside Acapulco, Mexico
It was in the mid 1970s that I had the bright idea to drive from Acapulco to Mexico City. It was only a few inches on the map, right? We would travel the back roads (the only choice back then) and make the trip in two days, with an overnight stop in Taxco. Off we went in a rented VW bug. I thought dodging cattle on narrow roads might deliver the most excitement. Wrong.
Just an hour outside Acapulco on a remote winding road we were suddenly stopped by several men in military uniforms waving machine guns at us. Forcing us out the car, they searched everything from the tiny trunk to the tinier glove compartment, all while conversing in Spanish. Sometime later (ok, maybe a few minutes), they waved us on to continue the journey. It was only later I would find out that the mayor of Acapulco had supposedly gone missing, and soldiers were combing the countryside looking for him. We reached Taxco safely, which should be the end of the story. Wrong.
The entire city of Taxco was without electricity, something I was told was a common occurrence. Managing a hotel room in the dark was a nuisance, but the greater concern was the nearly empty gas tank, and gas pumps need electricity to work. We were stranded! Ok, the electricity went back on the next morning, and we were alive for the next adventure.
Smacked rental car into redwood truck on Northern California backroad
While on the subject of rental cars and remote country roads, I’m reminded of another story. The year was 1974, probably this Midwest guy’s first trip through California. I rented a nice red Ford Pinto and marveled at the lush scenery on winding Route 116 between Healdsburg and Jenner, my destination on the coast. I never made it. Whipping around a curve in the rain on the narrow road, I smacked into a truck hauling an enormous redwood tree. The truck won. No one was hurt, but it was still a scary moment. Ironically, the Ford Pinto model was called Redwood.
Moved boulder on rainy PCH through Big Sur just before closure
One last California highway story. Even on a clear day driving the Pacific Coast Highway through Big Sur can be a little nerve-racking. This day was pouring rain, with some resulting landslides and falling rocks. Of course, midway there really is no alternate route and no turning back. Suddenly, a large boulder broke loose from the hillside and blocked the road right in front of us. I was able to stop the car. Now what? No choice but to fight the rain and try to move the boulder just enough to squeeze by, the car hugging the cliffside. We made it to Carmel Highlands as the last vehicle, with Highway Patrol closing the PCH behind us.
Stranded by both blizzard of the century and 26 inches of rain in one day
I just realized that weather was the culprit in a number of scary travel moments for me. I was used to navigating huge snowstorms from living in Michigan for 11 years. A trip from Lansing to Newark, New Jersey would be little problem, with just a change of planes in Cleveland. I hadn’t counted on the “blizzard of the century,” aka the “Cleveland superbomb,” that stranded us for more than two days in a tiny Ohio motel, without food. Scary, but at least there was shelter.
For years, I skipped around the Caribbean, sometimes sailing, sometimes flying between islands. I finally decided to visit Puerto Rico, and arrived in San Juan at night as it started raining hard. It never stopped. 26 inches fell the next day. Yes, 26 inches. No one was allowed to leave the hotel, but again it was shelter. I have watched tornadoes go by, dealt with white-out snowstorms and freezing rain that made driving a thrill ride. Mother Nature always wins.
Watched airplane engine spew fire just before takeoff
Speaking of the Caribbean, another moment that could have been scarier, happened as I waited for takeoff on a twin engine aircraft. The plane was packed, and we sat on the tarmac for a long time. Passengers were getting cranky. I remember a lady yelling, “Why aren’t we going?” As I turned back to look at her, I saw the reason why. Huge flames were shooting out of one of the engines. Probably a good idea that we hadn’t taken off. Evacuating while still on the ground works for me.
Survived strong super typhoon traveling the Philippines
The Philippines are no stranger to typhoons, averaging about 20 per year. Super typhoons are another story, with winds reaching 150 miles per hour, torrential rains, flooding, and landslides. It was October, 2016. We were a group of 10 travel writers given the opportunity to experience the sunny island from north to south. Late in the week, as our minibus rambled toward Vigan, the weather changed dramatically. That night the category 5 typhoon Haima (Lawin) crashed our coastal route.
In the morning we had to take a vote: try to continue on MacArthur Highway and see if we can make it to Manila or stay in Vigan until roads were deemed safe. I voted with the majority to venture on. What followed was flooding too high for cars, downed power poles from 140 mph winds (see photo above), and a harrowing ride that turned from 6 hours into 12. The 10 of us still stay in touch, with the tourism bureau saying we earned the name “typhoon busters.”
Near collision with moose in Quebec
What is it with me and weather conditions? This time I was sound asleep lying on the bed in the back of my VW bus. It was late at night as we drove on a snow-covered highway in rural Quebec. Suddenly, I awoke to the sensation of the vehicle spinning in circles, with its headlights flashing to the landscape, the road, and back again. Then we were stopped in a snowbank just on the road’s edge, somehow facing in the right direction. A giant moose had wandered onto the road, and all the spinning meant we had just missed him. (photo above by kariahlers)
Nearly drown while deep-water snorkeling off Cozumel, Mexico
A lot of scary travel moments result from personal fears. One of mine is drowning, since I am a poor swimmer. For some reason, I signed up for a snorkeling cruise in Cozumel. I didn’t realize the boat would head well out to sea, where we would be dumped overboard, sans life jackets. Worse, the crew would abandon us to do their own deep-sea diving. There I was, staring down through a hundred feet of clear water, when vertigo began to set in. As I decided to swim back to the boat, the current seemed to be taking me further away from it. Fortunately, someone in the group noticed my flailing and helped me return to the ship’s ladder. I scrambled aboard. I have not snorkeled more than 20 feet from shore since.
Went flying into the ocean from a banana boat in the Bahamas
Ok, don’t deep-water snorkel. Having just missed Hurricane Frances, I would stay on the safety of a banana boat in the tranquil waters of Disney’s own island, Castaway Cay. Unfortunately, my position, perched on the back of the boat, was precarious. Once out to sea, the driver decided speed and curves would be a nice mix. The result sent me flying off the back into the ocean as the boat sped away. At least Disney requires life jackets, so the scare was only momentary, as I would be fished out for the adventure to resume.
Sailed without engine into towering swells in Newport Beach jetty
You would think with a fear of drowning that sailing wouldn’t be a hobby I would indulge in. Still, I became a certified sailboat skipper, routinely departing the busy Newport Beach harbor for the Pacific Ocean with only the tricky wind to power the 32-foot boat. Quick turns are challenging. One time the swells were so great that at the bottom of the swell I couldn’t see anything in front of me. The oncoming boats in the narrow jetty who might think they have right of way? Suddenly out of sight as I stare at a wall of water. They appear again, then gone. The experience stays with me to this day as a scary travel moment.
Cable car power out, stopped high above ground in the Swiss Alps
Another personal fear concerns heights. I am fine looking out the window of a tall building. I even piloted a plane over Maui, landing on Moloka’i. Cable cars are another story. I feel neither safe nor in control. That hasn’t stopped me from taking cable cars, particularly in Switzerland. They are the Swiss, after all. What could go wrong? I was to find out when our car suddenly stopped high above the Swiss Alps. There we swayed in the high winds, while the operator communicated by radio with someone in German. What seemed an eternity was probably more like 15 minutes, when the power was restored, and we made it safely to terra firma.
Serious food poisoning in rural Myanmar
Most world travelers have had plenty of cases of sickness to write about. I’ve suffered illness in Kenya and food poisoning from bad fish in Tahiti (with a plane to catch). Visits to more than a few emergency rooms have revealed exactly what shellfish I am deathly allergic to. One of the most memorable experiences occurred in rural Myanmar. My guide and I had taken a longtail wooden boat across Inle Lake. From there we would be transported by motorized cart to a remote village’s food market. It was eye-opening to watch a lady with a string of fish barter with a betel-smoking woman who had some kind of raw meat to offer. And so many foods I had never seen. I had to try some of that black stuff that looked like licorice and some of that pink stuff wrapped in a leaf. Just a few hours later, of course, this western stomach developed painful food poisoning. Worse yet, I had to immediately deal with another boat ride, a taxi ride, and a cross-country plane trip from Mandalay to Yangon. And here I am, alive enough to offer more tips and advice: if you can’t identify the food, consider not eating it.
Do you have any stories of your own scary travel moments? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post.
8 recipes inspired by my travels
Most people would agree that food and travel go hand-in-hand. Some of our finest memories of a journey are tied to a wonderful meal steeped in the cuisine of a land. There is nothing like an authentic cheese fondue on a frigid night in Switzerland or Beijing noodle shared with a table of friends in China.
I have my own take on the dishes I remember, often scouring the pantry and then the Internet for that critical ingredient that must be used. (I’m talking about you, sweet Hungarian paprika). In the end, through trial and error and taste preferences, I am ready to share 8 recipes inspired by my travels. Come with me as we relive some memorable journeys through food.
1. France – Cheese soufflé (soufflé au fromage)
My favorite restaurant in Paris, a city of remarkable restaurants, is a place called Le Soufflé. I have been going there for more than 40 years. I might begin with soupe à l’oignon gratinée, then soufflé au fromage. Next comes a savory soufflé, such as cheese, chicken, and mushroom. For the grand finale, we share soufflé chocolat and soufflé Grand Marnier. Yes, four soufflés in one meal.
My humble attempt to duplicate their cheese soufflé actually uses two cheeses from Switzerland – half Gruyere and half Emmental. The secret is to carefully fold the ingredients and not overcook.
2. Italy – Spaghetti sauce
I’m not ashamed to admit that Italian pasta with a red sauce is my go-to meal anywhere in Italy. It may be because my favorite meal growing up was my mother’s spaghetti sauce. The recipe below has evolved from hers, which was derived from her mother. We lived in rural Illinois, with its rich black soil that to this day produces the finest tomatoes in the U.S. We grew our own, which she canned in mason jars in the summer for creating amazing spaghetti sauce year-round. Italians would approve. Plus, this sauce can be used to make lasagna and other pasta dishes.
3. Spain – Cheesecake, Basque-style
The Basque region of Spain has its own strong cultural traditions, so it is no surprise that they have a very different version of cheesecake. It is cooked in parchment paper at an extremely high heat and made with only four main ingredients. I love the creamy texture to go with a slight burnt touch. I stole this recipe from my culinary friend, So Young Park.
4. Hungary – Hungarian goulash
The goulash I ate in Budapest was decidedly more soup-like than my recipe, but I prefer a thicker stew that can be served on noodle or even rice. I also prefer bell peppers to root vegetables. One thing was definitely the same – traditional Hungarian paprika. There is no substitute for the sweet, fragrant spice that transforms this dish. The authentic Szeged brand can be found in the U.S. Mix sweet and hot to taste.
5. England – Chicken pot pie
There are many theories as to where meat pies originated, but few dispute that the English appropriated this dish a few centuries ago, to be enjoyed by nobles and peasants alike. While my version is more tame than game, it nonetheless hits the mark for the perfect comfort food. I prefer a double crust (made with Crisco for flakiness) baked in a glass or ceramic pie pan.
6. Switzerland – Cheese fondue
The alpine environment invites stick-to-the-ribs food, and I love much of what the Swiss have to offer. From rosti to raclette, I can’t get enough. But nothing takes the place of an authentic cheese fondue, with speared stale bread plunged into the hot delectable mixture. I can close my eyes and be transformed back to the medieval town of Gruyères, where I paired the dish with a local Riesling, leaving stuffed and a little woozy. When preparing this recipe, every ingredient should be Swiss, from Emmental and Gruyère cheese to Riesling to Kirschwasser.
7. China – Beijing noodle
So many delightful dishes to be enjoyed throughout China – how to choose one. I will admit I would never try to duplicate favorites, such as Beijing duck. I do prepare dishes such as Sichuan green beans and Kung Pao chicken, but I keep coming back to Beijing noodle. Armed with the proper ingredients, Tian Mian jiang (sweet bean paste) and Shaoxing wine, one can bring back the memories of this simple, tasty treat.
8. United States – Pumpkin pie
America is such a melting pot of cuisines that most of our favorites – pizza, hamburgers, pasta, burritos, etc. – were brought here by immigrants from all over the world. Pumpkins, on the other hand, probably originated in North America and were a staple of Native American diets. A pumpkin pie could have been on the first Thanksgiving dinner table.
The secret to mine is to roast my own pumpkin; I never use canned. This recipe, handed down from my great-aunt June, calls for only two spices – nutmeg and ginger. Careful not to overcook, the result is close to a pumpkin custard.
Looking for more American recipes based on travel? Check out my Road trip snack recipes, including another New England favorite, cranberry walnut scones.
Any comments or questions? Feel free to leave them in the bottom of this post.
I avoid “best travel” lists
As a rule, I avoid “best travel” lists for several reasons. You should too, and I am about to tell you why. Whether it is a questionable motive, a one-size-fits-all mentality, clickbait, or simple bias, these lists of “The best places to travel this coming year!” aren’t all they’re cracked up to be. It seems every well-known brand, from Lonely Planet to CNN to Travel+Leisure to Vogue, to name a few, publishes a list. You need to create your own.
Questionable motive
I launched Kelley Blue Book’s kbb.com and ran it for more than a decade. We used the tagline “The Trusted Resource.” That meant you could be assured there was no ulterior motive to the information we were providing. But, wow, that was a challenge. Many times, I was approached by an auto manufacturer offering to pay us millions of dollars to feature them in some way that was clearly not advertising. We were offered a comparison tool that showed a certain brand in a more favorable light, an offer to modify our site to highlight one manufacturer over its rival, and so on. Some other sites took the money. Believe me, it was a challenge to turn down millions in revenue (and profit) in the name of being a trusted resource for consumers.
Why do I tell this story? Because the same thing happens in the travel industry. Let’s pretend that Casablanca wants to appear on this year’s best places to travel. Casablanca’s tourism bureau is given a significant budget to approach major brands and influencers, offering free trips, advertising dollars, content, and more in turn for favorable positioning. There’s nothing wrong with this. It’s their job to promote Casablanca and all it has to offer tourists. Just remember that the site you are reading or the influencer you are watching may also be promoting Casablanca over some other places that could be more worthy.
One-size-fits-all mentality
This is probably the biggest reason I avoid best travel lists. I like destinations that present great photo opportunities. You might seek renowned museums and architecture. Maybe exciting cuisine tops your list for choosing a place. Maybe you are an adventure seeker, a zipliner, a skier, a scuba diver – none of which interest me. Some might want a place with total peace and quiet and others a vibrant urban nightlife. We enjoy travel for so many different reasons it seems fruitless to present “The 10 best places to travel this year!”
Even the way we travel to destinations reflects our individual tastes. Should we explore Europe via a river cruise, by train or rental car? In those cases, the journey becomes as fulfilling as the destinations.
One size does not fit all. I can live with a list from backroads.com of the top places to hike and bike. That is their specialty, and if it fits my lifestyle, I appreciate the help. If I have already made up my mind to cruise Alaska, I can benefit from a list of the best Alaskan cruises. Just don’t say we should all really visit Greece and Indonesia this year (when last year it was Iceland and Turkey).
Clickbait
The lists I really ignore are the ones that seem to exist as clickbait. We have all seen the teaser: “10 best places to travel – number 6 will shock you!” Of course, we all now want to know what number 6 is (probably the place that is paying to be on the list). Resist the temptation to click on videos or posts that are using this way to get your attention.
Simple bias
In a world of bloggers and vloggers and TikTokers who have honestly not traveled that much, “best travel” lists can reflect simple bias. They really enjoyed that over-water bungalow in the Maldives, so it goes on their list of the world’s top travel places. Have they ever been to Tahiti? Kauai? Bali? The Philippines? Was that bungalow really the best place in the world or the best place they have visited?
I have been to 55 countries and more than 600 cities (I stopped counting), but it still doesn’t qualify me to create a “must visit” list for the world. As much as I like Brazil, I have to admit I know very little about most of South America. Our luxury and adventure Alaskan cruise was exceptional, but would Antarctica have been even better? While travel to 55 countries might sound impressive, another way of looking at it is there are about 140 countries I haven’t visited! That includes Portugal, Peru, and Papua New Guinea, just to name a few that start with “P.”
Lists derived from user input are especially prone to bias. Take the Condé Nast Readers’ Choice Awards. The same names come up year after year because people keep going back to the places they know and like. That’s fine (and informative), but suffers from a form of selection bias.
Create your own list
It is challenging. Forbes and U.S. News Travel each published a list of “best cruise lines for couples.” They are respected brands, but are all couples alike? Do young honeymooners and retired senior couples want the same exact experience? Are first-time economy cruisers and luxury cruisers on their 50th voyage looking for the same amenities?
My suggestion is to make a list of the things that matter most to you when you think about travel. Use that information to search for a list that narrows the results. A search for “best small-ship luxury cruises for senior couples” at least returns some interesting results, including a video from cntraveler.com entitled “Discover the best small-ship ultra-luxury cruise.” More importantly, there are no articles about Carnival or Royal Caribbean, who don’t specialize in small ships (or true luxury).
Don’t even know where to start? 1,000 Places to See Before You Die, by Patricia Schultz, understands the problem. Think of it as a best list with a thousand entries. That’s enough to get you on the journey of narrowing down what interests you. I also recommend attending a travel show if one comes to a city near you.
A Google search for “best overwater bungalows in Bora Bora” returns a page of exactly that. Now we’re interested in researching further. By the way, Polynesia didn’t make any of the above general best lists. But Uzbekistan and Northwest Michigan did, just to show you how different people are, and why you should avoid those general best travel lists.
Do you have any thoughts about this? Agree? Disagree? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post.
8 travel items just for a cruise
I have been to 56 countries and more than 600 cities, so I know how to pack for a trip. But some recent cruising caused me to purchase 8 travel items just for a cruise. I will quickly share with you the essentials of what to bring and not bring the next time you take to the high seas.
First, some ground rules. Not all cruises are created equal. Obviously, you will need to pack differently for a Caribbean, Mediterranean, or Mexican cruise than the journey to Alaska or Iceland. There will be differences between a budget cruise on a large Carnival ship versus a smaller, luxury experience on Seabourn. I have sailed on everything from Royal Caribbean and Disney to Windstar, and there are travel essentials that apply pretty much to all cruises. Here is my short list:
1. Desk fan, charged via USB
This is one of the best buys for less than $25. Unlike an upscale hotel room, your cabin on a ship, while air-conditioned, may not have a lot of air flow. Solution: a small, lightweight, variable-speed fan. The battery-operated one I bought on Amazon could be charged via USB and easily run all night on a charge, saving a precious outlet (see below). It kept the air moving at night and even provided a little white noise.
2. Power strip without surge protection, plus power bank
Cruise ships have a unique situation. First, for whatever reason, there is a lack of outlets for today’s electronic needs. My new Carnival ship had two outlets and two USB ports, but they were across the cabin from the bed. The luxury Seabourn Odyssey features just two outlets, also not that handy. Second, regular power strips with surge protection are not allowed. If you are a couple traveling with laptops, cell phones, iPads, iWatches, etc., you will need more outlets. An inexpensive power strip without surge protection does the job. Of course, don’t forget your portable power bank for ultimate mobility, both in the stateroom and on all-day excursions.
3. Manual watch
Speaking of iWatches, they are smart enough to change time zones automatically. Unfortunately, sometimes the critically important ship time does not match the real time of your port. One solution is to bring an inexpensive watch you can set manually. You won’t miss the ship at the end of the day. An added benefit is not having to worry about someone stealing your watch. I have a friend who had his Rolex ripped off his wrist in Rio. Only later would the thief discover the Rolex was a $20 fake!
4. Waterproof phone holder
Speaking of protecting your electronics, many cruise excursions risk getting your smart phone wet. There can be unforeseen hazards, like the need to step off a tender into deep water or that sudden rainstorm from out of nowhere in Alaska. Fortunately, peace of mind is just a $4 purchase away. With my waterproof phone holder from JoJo, I was able to take photos and video without ever removing the phone from its protective plastic pouch.
5. Binoculars
Traveling on a cruise ship affords the advantage of being able to see wildlife, but often at a distance. These days you can bring portable, waterproof, high-powered binoculars that enable upscale viewing on a budget. I bought a pair on Amazon for less than $40. Is that a whale? Is that a bald eagle? Why, yes!
6. A bottle of wine
I have journeyed all over the world secure in the knowledge that TSA will confiscate a 750ml bottle of wine in my carry-on. Cruising is a different animal. If you are traveling on a ship that is not all-inclusive, you really ought to consider bringing a bottle of your favorite wine onboard. It is actually encouraged. Don’t forget the corkscrew, if needed.
7. Touchscreen gloves
If you are on a cold-weather cruise, science has invented the perfect answer for cold hands and an iPhone camera – touchscreen gloves. The ones I bought on Amazon for less than $7 also have little grips, so the phone doesn’t slip while you try to video that whale breaching.
8. Items to add to your “drug store”
I am a big proponent of carrying small quantities of medicine and first aid while traveling. I write all about it here: Why carry a drug store in a Ziploc bag? Cruising calls for a few items you wouldn’t necessarily carry elsewhere:
- Poo-pourri. A small bottle of this stuff actually works for the confined bathroom that may not be well-ventilated.
- Something for motion sickness. It is a legitimate issue with multiple solutions, from Dramamine to wrist bands.
- Flushable wet wipes. A package of these has more uses than the obvious.
What you don’t need to bring
I perused a lot of essentials lists before cruising, some with 40 or more items. I don’t think cruising requires so much that is different from other travel. So, skip these:
- Hair dryer. They are built-in.
- Night light. Some lists recommend buying a night light. I just use my phone.
- Alarm clock. I just use my phone.
- Alcohol. Wine, yes. Booze and beer, no.
- Weed. No matter the laws of your state or country, you are in international waters now.
- Magnetic hooks. Yes, the walls of your stateroom may be metal. You also have a closet and drawers. There should be plenty of space to hang things.
Do you agree with my list? Do you have your own suggestions to help others? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post.
What’s upscale?
Traveling on a luxury cruise line means so many items are taken care of for you. Want a robe and slippers or you forgot something, just ask.
What’s budget?
You could purchase my entire list for less than $100!
Upscale travel on a budget
This blog is all about upscale travel on a budget. Yet, despite the tips I will provide here and in my other articles, what you choose for luxury and where you decide to save is a very personal thing. These tips are suggestions from my travels to some 55 countries. They are how I manage to enjoy upscale journeys while still keeping an eye on expenditures. If that idea sounds like you, read on for my top 10 tips.
1. “Upscale” and “budget” are personal
I have talked to travelers who always fly international economy class, saving money to later spend on hotels, meals, entertainment, etc. That makes sense for them. Not my style. With a bad back in my past, long legs, and little personal “padding,” enduring 14 hours in a coach seat is not tolerable. I opt for upscale lie-flat business class seats. I arrive at my foreign destination refreshed and ready to enjoy the first day. It’s a personal thing.
But that means I might already be thousands of dollars behind others when it comes to budget, and the trip has barely started. So, I have to find other ways to save without compromising the experience.
It’s important that you determine what upscale travel on a budget means to you. Decide while you are researching and planning a trip, not later. What are your memory-makers? You may forever remember the fantastic dinner that cost you hundreds of dollars or you may remember the interesting street food you chose over an expensive restaurant. These are your travel memories. Think about what matters to you!
2. Some outstanding locations are also affordable
Everybody traveling to Europe wants to experience London and Paris – and with good reason. But they can also be quite expensive. Meanwhile, Central European cities, such as Prague, can be wonderful at a much lower price. Research alternative destinations. Consider Budapest instead of Vienna or Madrid instead of Barcelona.
Bangkok is still Asia’s affordable crown jewel. I have stayed many times at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, a Luxury Collection Hotel in the heart of Bangkok, for less than $200 per night (and that even includes one of the finest international buffet breakfasts on the planet). Transportation in Bangkok is cheap, food is cheap, even excellent medical care is cheap (ask me how I know). And yet, you are in an amazing city, with an enchanting culture – the perfect friendly base for visiting the rest of Thailand and Southeast Asia.
Think outside the box – and by box, I mean the usual tourist destinations. In North America, all the tour groups flock to high-priced New York City, Washington D.C., and Hollywood. But you can find history in Charleston, great food in Austin, and a more upscale SoCal experience in Orange County. And discover San Miguel de Allende instead of Mexico City for history, food, and upscale living!
3. Stay outside the expensive city
Travelers wanting to experience Switzerland often wind up staying in its most expensive city, Zurich. But the rail system is so excellent in that country that choosing a base such as Luzern or Bern makes a lot more sense. You can take day trips to enjoy Swiss experiences, like Gruyères, Lauterbrunnen, Jungfrau and countless more; then return to a wonderful city that costs less than Zurich (and is easier to navigate).
Florence is delightful and should be visited, but is not your best choice for an extended stay to explore Tuscany (which you should). After a short stay in Florence, we find the medieval city of Montepulciano to be the perfect base for daily road trips throughout the region in our Mercedes-Benz rental. Do your research. We book a beautiful 2-bedroom home for less than the price of a Florence hotel room.
Speaking of Italy, consider staying in charming Verona and visiting Venice as a day trip. The two cities are only just over an hour apart via a comfortable high-speed train.
The Paris countryside can also be amazing. The Loire Valley is home to more than 300 châteaux. We have a 14th century mansion practically to ourselves, and we are only 70km from Paris by train.
4. Stay longer in one place and book a vacation rental
In the above examples we were able to explore a region by staying in one place. With that strategy you can begin to look at vacation rentals as an alternative to hotels. Check out sites such as Airbnb and VRBO, but also search for region-specific platforms. For example, if you Google “luxury vacation rentals in Madrid,” you will find sites such as Home Club, Inspirato, Genteel Home, Casa Malasana, Likibu, The Luxury Travel Book, Plum Guide, and more.
Vacation rentals can be very expensive on a short stay due to cleaning and other fixed fees, but spread those costs out across a week and upscale living can be budget living. And now you can prepare some of your meals in your own kitchen, for further savings.
These days, even timeshare properties can be booked like hotel rooms. We stay on Maui at the Westin Ocean Resort Villas instead of a hotel. We use VRBO to discover a wonderful golf course condo in the heart of Princeville, Kauai. You can too!
5. Take advantage of shoulder season
Families are often restricted to travel when school is out, adding to the burden and price of holiday journeys. If you have the flexibility to travel at other times, by all means, do it. Research when shoulder season occurs at your intended destination – it will be different throughout the world. In some cases, it may mean colder weather or more chance of rain, so check the monthly weather trends as well.
We love to travel in October to Europe and North America. Summer crowds are gone, prices are often much lower, and the weather can still be pleasant. We spend a week in Jackson Hole in October and are delighted to encounter both autumn color and some snow. Rooms at the Four Seasons, for example, can be twice as expensive in the summer and three times as much during ski season.
Zermatt, Switzerland is a haven (and heaven) for tourists to experience breathtaking hiking in the summer and world-class skiing in the winter. We visit in October. The weather is magnificent, the hiking is just as incredible, but the cost of accommodations is much lower.
Areas that are popular with weekend travelers can also switch from upscale to budget pricing for weekday stays. Our Airbnb house in Lake Arrowhead, California is quite reasonably priced for a Monday to Thursday visit in November.
6. Check multiple sites for airfare
I usually start with Expedia when checking airfares. You may have your own favorite platform, such as Skyscanner, Kayak, etc. Remember, some airlines are not featured on these providers. If your dates are flexible, make sure to explore that option. Airfares might vary widely, depending on the day of the week.
Once I find a possible flight, I also check the airline’s website. Sometimes my loyalty status will improve anything from ticket price to baggage fees to seat assignment. Then, I usually book directly with the airline. In my experience, if there is a problem later, I would prefer to deal with the airline’s customer service rather than a third party. The last time I actually booked with Expedia was 2013! When my flight out of Chiang Mai, Thailand was canceled, Expedia’s answer was to book me on a flight two days later! Their customer service was of no help. Needless to say, I canceled the ticket and booked my own direct flight out of Chiang Mai later the same day.
7. Also check multiple sites for accommodations
Unlike airline third-party sites, the hotel platforms are pretty good. I often use booking.com and have never had a problem. Their “genius” discounts really can save you money. Consider starting your research at Google Travel, which aggregates pricing from multiple sites.
As with airlines, I often wind up booking a room directly with the hotel, especially if my loyalty status kicks in. It can yield me a free breakfast or even a suite. Truth be told, though, loyalty programs are not as valuable as they used to be. It all went downhill when Marriott bought Starwood.
8. Use local guides to save time and money
It was my first time visiting Vietnam, so I reached out to a local guide group to arrange a car from the Hanoi airport to my hotel. I thought the price, at less than $40, was reasonable. An English-speaking guide accompanied the driver. When we got to my hotel the guide asked me how much time I needed to freshen up before the night’s excursion. What? Yes, that price included the airport transfer, plus a private tour of Hanoi, unlimited street food and beer, and safe return to my hotel. I would go on to use the family-owned Custom Asia Travel each day for Ninh Binh, Tho Ha, and Bai Tu Long Bay. A custom, private experience is truly upscale, but can be achieved on a budget.
I used the same strategy to navigate Myanmar, receiving a great education from a different guide in each region. In Laos, my driver doubled as a guide. We visited lovely Kuang Si Falls, having them to ourselves. On his advice, we skipped the butterfly park, instead stopping to photograph the same butterflies in the wild. It was only when we stopped by his home later in the day that I found out my driver/guide was also the mayor of a district of Luang Prabang!
Moral of the story: immerse yourself in the local culture and experience upscale travel on a budget.
9. Carry your own supplies
My carry-on bag is usually filled half with clothes and half with supplies. I drink coffee first thing in the morning, so I take my own coffee around the world. It beats trying to find a café open at 6:00am or paying 4 Euros for each gulp of expresso.
I also carry a U.S. drugstore in a quart-size Ziploc bag. Try buying eye drops in Cambodia, when all the ingredients are in Khmer and the pharmacist doesn’t speak your language either. In fact, I carry one bag for internal brands (think Alka-Selzer) and one for external (think Neosporin). Convenient, money-saving, and reassuring.
10. Zig when others zag
The whole idea of upscale travel on a budget is to figure out what’s important to you – when to splurge and when to conserve. Often it means going against the flow. Like most expats, I used to take a taxi from the Beijing airport to my apartment; then I figured out how to get there via subway at a fraction of the price and time. I do the same in Bangkok. Now, I will always explore that option.
Some people suggest booking a full meal plan at your hotel for convenience. I would rather find a restaurant enjoyed by the locals, almost always with better food at a lower price. The idea is not to follow the crowd. Follow your head and your heart and make your own travel memories.
Do you have any questions? Do you have your own suggestions to help others? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post.
What’s upscale?
Decide for yourself where to splurge. For me, it is business class and comfortable accommodations.
What’s budget?
Public transportation, local guides and cuisine, offseason deals, and more. Do your research.
Memorable meals from my journeys
Food plays an important role in everyone’s travel memories. In my travel to some 56 countries, I remember many classic meals that expressed the culture as much as any sights did. Paring down the list of memorable meals from my journeys to just 26 entries was as difficult as choosing from Da Dong’s 160-page roast duck menu.
There are going to be wonderful experiences left out. In fact, fewer than a third of the countries I have visited are represented. Some of my favorite cuisines, including pasta in Italy and barbeque in America, are missing. Why? Because there isn’t a remarkable establishment I feel absolutely compelled to return to. The list also excludes items I can prepare even better at home, from my mother’s spaghetti sauce to my Hungarian goulash, which I think is tastier than any I had in Budapest.
And so, in no particular order, here are the memorable meals from my journeys.
1. Beijing duck . . . Da Dong Roast Duck, Beijing
The truth is, Beijing duck, as prepared in Beijing, may be my favorite meal. I have dined many times at Quanjude, the 7-story restaurant on Hepingmen Street where it all began. It’s very good there, as it should be – they have been serving “Peking duck” since 1864! It’s good at Made in China, but I go there for the Beggar’s Chicken instead. It’s the chefs at Da Dong who have taken Beijing duck to another level. Crispy, juicy, not oily – just perfection, at any of their upscale Beijing locations.
2. Chicago deep dish pizza . . . Pizzeria Uno, Chicago
I love pizza and have eaten countless varieties from their birthplace in Naples to New York. It doesn’t matter, because Chicago deep dish pizza redefines this category. And no place is better than the original, Pizzeria Uno. My dad started dining there right after WWII. I was raising a glass in his honor there one time, and at that instant a full glass of beer flipped off a nearby waitress tray. The place holds memories.
3. Tom Yum Goong . . . Bangkok
I can’t seem to choose a favorite restaurant in Bangkok for this dish, but nobody outside of Thailand can quite duplicate its deliciousness. Spicy prawn soup with lemongrass, chili, galangal, lime leaves, fish sauce – no wonder yum is in the name.
4. Soufflé, onion soup . . . Le Soufflé, Paris
France is known for soufflés, and no place does them better than Le Soufflé in Paris. Cheese, spinach – I order several; but we always start with the best onion soup gratinée. I have been dining here for more than 50 years and never been disappointed.
5. Kung Pao chicken, “squirrel” fish . . . E Mei, Beijing
One of my favorite Beijing restaurants is E Mei, a popular neighborhood establishment near the financial district in the west. I am always the only Caucasian there, ready to sit with Chinese friends and share Gong Bao Ji Ding (Kung Pao chicken with hints of coffee), Songshu Guiyu (a sweet and sour fish shaped like a squirrel), purple yams, and more
6. Fish & chips . . . Quinlan’s, Killarney, Ireland
Nobody does fish & chips quite like the folks in the U.K. We loved the lightly battered ones from Quinlan’s on Killarney’s main street so much, we just kept going back. That’s a sign of a memorable meal, especially when followed by a Guinness.
7. Sushi . . . Tsukiji Fish Market, Tokyo
These days, people eat sushi all over the world, even from supermarkets. There is one place on the planet where the fish is the freshest – the famous Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. Tiny establishments ring the world’s largest market. Arrive early in the morning, grab a stool and prepare to be delighted.
8. Best Mexican . . . San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
It’s difficult for me to single out a best Mexican restaurant in this city that sits several hours outside Mexico City and is known for its food. If I had to pick just one, I might choose La Azotea for its unique jicama tacos and its dramatic views. There are 300 restaurants to sample here. If you can’t decide, you can try your own hand at Chef Gaby’s La Fonda Rosa cooking school.
9. Afternoon tea . . . Fortnum & Mason, London
Sometimes travel creates a stroke of serendipity. We literally stumbled upon the original Fortnum & Mason while strolling back to our hotel in Mayfair. Afternoon tea here is a delightfully British tradition.
10. Sichuan “comfort food” . . . South Beauty, Chengdu
There is something special about eating Sichuan food at the source. Even though South Beauty is a chain in China, the Chengdu location is ideal for Dan Dan Mian (noodle), Yu Xiang Qiezi (spicy eggplant), and other succulent dishes.
11. Emince de veau . . . Château Gütsch, Luzern
The photo is of the iconic Château Gütsch, which sits high above Luzern, Switzerland. Their dining room setting is perfect for a classic Swiss dish, Emince de veau – tiny pieces of tender veal cooked in a decadent cream sauce on top of noodles.
12. Best sandwich . . . Lucca Delicatessen, San Francisco
How does a sandwich make the list of memorable meals from my journeys? It’s easy when we keep returning to Lucca Delicatessen in the Marina District of San Francisco. Step to the crowded counter and start pointing. Still-warm Acme sourdough bread? Yes, please. Salami, Mortadella, Swiss cheese, avocado, homemade pickled peppers, red onion, olives, lettuce – are we done yet?
13. Egg tarts . . . Koh Kret, Thailand
What exactly are eggs tarts doing in the middle of a post about memorable meals? My excuse is that I love them, from Europe to Macau. And the most memorable ones are baked in their own little clay pottery made here on Koh Kret Island, in Thailand.
14. Jamon Iberico de Belotta . . . Madrid and Barcelona
When my Madrid friend took me into his business conference room and started slicing a leg of ham, I knew I was about to learn something special. The finest ham in the world starts with black Iberico pigs, who graze in pastures of oak trees on the fallen acorns. The hams are then cured for about 4 years. The paper-thin slices of the sweet, nutty goodness are truly a celebration of the noble Spanish pig.
15. Jiaozi (dumplings) . . . Beijing
Different regions in China are known for their specialties, and Beijing is the dumpling capital in my book. Especially popular for an inexpensive lunch, I have one friend who would typically eat two dozen for lunch every day. Dip in Chinese vinegar and some chili paste. I have taken several Jiaozi-making classes at The Hutong, but I’m still not very good at it.
16. Bratwurst & sauerkraut . . . Hofbrauhaus, Munich
How could something so simple as a meal of sausage and sauerkraut, with either a hard roll and cheese or soft pretzel be so memorable? Those of you who have been to Bavaria know what I’m talking about.
17. Chicken Hormok . . . Manda de Laos, Luang Prabang
Start with Yam Mak Pee, a banana blossom salad. Follow with Mol Kai, chicken in a red curry sauce with coconut milk and Kaffir lime leaves. Finish with Sangkhaya Makpao, a coconut crème brûlée. I kept returning for the haute cuisine in a hot tropical setting, at Manda de Laos in Luang Prabang, Laos.
18. Best South Indian . . . Ragam, London
I have not visited India and am no expert when it comes to Indian cuisine. I do know that London has some pretty good South Indian food, thanks to the large ethnic presence there. Our meal at Ragam was definitely memorable.
19. “Water boiled fish” . . . The Place, Beijing
Shui Zhu Yu in Mandarin means water boiled fish. The dish is so much more. You are shown your live fish, which they gently boil, then place in a pot of hot oil that is infused with hua jiao, the Sichuan peppercorns that literally numb your mouth (in a good way). This is another taste sensation that is difficult to duplicate outside of China.
20. Lobster & fried clams . . . Gloucester House, Mass
Unfortunately, I am allergic to most hard-shell seafood, including oysters, mussels, and clams. Fry those clams, and I’m back at the table. Add a boiled 1-pound lobster just pulled out of the Atlantic, and I’m in heaven. The name of heaven is Gloucester House, in the harbor of Gloucester, Massachusetts.
21. Street food . . . Hanoi, Vietnam
No list of memorable meals would be complete without an entry for street food. Hanoi is where Anthony Bourdain and President Obama sat down on little blue stools and ate spring rolls with local beer. They filmed it in May, 2016, two years after my many similar meals on the streets of Hanoi, home of the best street food on the planet.
22. Steak & fries . . . Le Relais de Venise, Paris
Is it the best steak I have ever eaten? No. The best unlimited fries? Maybe not. So why is the wait to get into Le Relais de Venise, in Paris, often an hour? Because it is the most memorable entrecôte and pommes frites in the most memorable setting in the most memorable city.
23. Xiao Long Bao . . . Din Tai Fung, Shanghai
There is a 100-year-old saying, “often imitated, never duplicated.” That is appropriate for Din Tai Fung’s version of the famous Chinese pork soup dumpling. First, poke a hole with your chopstick to let the steam out of this delicate indulgence; then enjoy in one bite. The good news is that Din Tai Fung has been able to duplicate this treat at its restaurants around the world, although nothing beats the Shanghai location.
24. Cheese fondue . . . Gruyères, Switzerland
Cheese fondue has to be one of the most misunderstood dishes in the world. Cheap varieties have populated menus, even created chains. Believe me, nothing comes close to the authentic fondue served in this medieval town that is the home of Gruyères cheese. Blended with Emmenthal and other secret ingredients, served with big cubes of French bread, bubbling over an open flame. It warms my soul just thinking about it.
25. Fried chicken . . . Mrs. Wilkes, Savannah, Georgia
Who doesn’t love southern fried chicken? The most memorable versions are from the U.S. southern states. For me, that means a trip to Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room, where it is served “all you can eat,” with all the fixins.
26. Best pastry buffet . . . Ipê, Iguazu Falls, Brazil
For a person with a sweet tooth, this was a tough category. How could I pass over the pastries of Vienna? In short, the desserts of Brazil are made with a heavy dose of sweetened condensed milk, for which I have a weakness. So, I indulge on flan that tops Mexico, crème brûlée to rival France, out-of-this-world chestnut souffle, and more.
Do you have any questions? What are your most memorable meals? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post.
What’s upscale?
A few of the restaurants could be pricey, such as Da Dong.
What’s budget?
Most of these meals come with quite reasonable prices, proving you don’t need to spend a fortune to create a lasting memory.