Journeys With Stephen

Tag: tourism

  • Ilocos: Philippines are more than beaches

    Ilocos: Philippines are more than beaches

    [et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ admin_label=”section” _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row admin_label=”row” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}” column_structure=”3_4,1_4″][et_pb_column type=”3_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Boracay. Palawan. Those are the names that have grabbed all the international tourist attention for the Philippines because of their gorgeous beaches. But this country offers so much more, especially for fans of UNESCO World Heritage sites. We are a group of 10 travel writers representing TBEX who visit 9 travel-worthy sites in Ilocos to prove you can have more fun in the Philippines beyond the beaches.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Vigan-City-Philippines-night.jpg” alt=”Vigan City Philippines night” title_text=”Vigan City Philippines night” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Vigan City Philippines night” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Yes, the Philippines has more than 7,000 islands. That makes for some incredible beaches to explore. Yes, Manila is a huge city that occupies some of the tourist’s time as well. However, if you venture about 500 km north of Manila to the provinces of Ilocos (Norte and Sur) you will find a different Philippines – one reminiscent of the earlier Spanish days. We start our journey in Laoag,

    Laoag City has a small airport that has direct flights just an hour from Manila on Philippine Airlines. For the upscale traveler, I recommend flying versus the 10 to 12-hour bus ride. Laoag City is a good base for our exploration of Ilocos, as we will head in every direction from here, like the spokes of a wheel.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Taoid-Museum-Laoag-Philippines.jpg” alt=”Taoid Museum Laoag Philippines” title_text=”Taoid Museum Laoag Philippines” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Taoid Museum Laoag Philippines” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    Laoag Taoid Museum

    There are more museums than malls in Ilocos, and the Taoid Museum is my favorite. It traces the history of this region’s indigenous people and does so in a very hands-on, non-glass-case way. We actually hold the ancient utensils in the photo above.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Stephen-Henson-Taoid-Museum-Philippines.jpg” alt=”Stephen Henson Taoid Museum Philippines” title_text=”Stephen Henson Taoid Museum Philippines” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Stephen Henson Taoid Museum Philippines” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]We are introduced to tribal life before and after colonization, including a fascinating exhibit on the Cordilleran highland custom of headhunting. I wrap up my visit by donning a wild boar tusk armband from the Gaddang ethnic community.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Sinking-bell-tower-Laoag-Philippines.jpg” alt=”Sinking bell tower Laoag Philippines” title_text=”Sinking bell tower Laoag Philippines” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Sinking bell tower Laoag Philippines” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    The sinking bell tower

    There are also more churches in Ilocos than malls. Laoag City has an interesting one, St. Williams Cathedral, famous for its sinking bell tower. The 45-meter tower, built in 1612, is unusual for several reasons. One, it is some 85 meters away (and across a busy street) from the church. Two, built on a sandy foundation, it slowly continues to sink. I wonder if I will have to someday refer to it as a 44-meter tower.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Kapurpurawan-rock-formation-Burgos-Philippines.jpg” alt=”Kapurpurawan rock formation Burgos Philippines” title_text=”Kapurpurawan rock formation Burgos Philippines” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Kapurpurawan rock formation Burgos Philippines” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    Kapurpurawan rock formation

    We travel from Laoag City a short distance to the northwest tip of the Philippines and the coast of Burgos. There we encounter a beautiful white limestone formation carved from years of wind and sea. The setting is tranquil, with green pastures, horses and the landscape of rock and water that can be navigated easily on foot.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Bangui-windmills-Philippines.jpg” alt=”Bangui windmills Philippines” title_text=”Bangui windmills Philippines” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Bangui windmills Philippines” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    Bangui windmills

    The northwest coast is also very windy, a perfect setting for a wind farm, the largest in Southeast Asia. The hypnotic effect of the 60-meter high towers set right on the coastline is a sight not to be missed.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Santa-Monica-Church-Sarrat-Philippines.jpg” alt=”Santa Monica Church Sarrat Philippines” title_text=”Santa Monica Church Sarrat Philippines” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Santa Monica Church Sarrat Philippines” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    Santa Monica Church

    Back to our hub of Laoag, this time we head east to Sarrat and the parish church of Santa Monica. The parish priest, who explains the long history of this 1779 structure, gives us a tour. The church was destroyed twice by fires and once by an earthquake and the adjacent convent was even occupied by the Japanese. Yet the Baroque and Neoclassical brick church, with the longest nave in the country, lives on.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Sand-dunes-Paoay-Philippines-TBEX.jpg” alt=”Sand dunes Paoay Philippines” title_text=”Sand dunes Paoay Philippines” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Sand dunes Paoay Philippines” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    Paoay sand dunes

    Just south of Laoag are the coastal sand dunes of Paoay. We diverge from our cultural tour for some extreme sports fun. Our group hops into 4x4s for a thrill ride to the dunes. From there, it’s sand boarding time. Some are brave enough to sand surf down the steep hills standing up. Others, like me, choose the seated method. It’s not a surprise that these dunes have been used for numerous movies, including Mad Max.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_video _builder_version=”4.21.2″ _module_preset=”default” src=”https://youtu.be/BCOI3MCq5wY” admin_label=”Batac Philippines empanadas video” hover_enabled=”0″ sticky_enabled=”0″][/et_pb_video][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    Batac empanadas

    All that exercise works up an appetite. Fortunately, the town of Batac, famous for its empanadas, is just to the east of Paoay. Considered the ambrosia of the Ilocanos, these snacks are addictive. Made with a savory filling of grated green papaya, mango, chopped Ilocano sausage and raw egg, they are wrapped in orange rice flour dough and quickly deep-fried. All that is needed is some hot sauce. Batac even holds an Empanada Festival every June.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Saint-Augustine-Church-Paoay-Philippines.jpg” alt=”Saint Augustine Church Paoay Philippines” title_text=”Saint Augustine Church Paoay Philippines” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Saint Augustine Church Paoay Philippines” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    Church of Saint Augustine

    Back in Paoay City we visit the crown jewel of Philippine churches, known locally as San Augustin or simply Paoay Church. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic landmark. This Baroque structure, built in 1710, has survived its share of natural disasters (earthquakes and typhoons), as well as man-made ones (numerous wars). The bell tower, made of coral stone, is especially impressive when viewed up close.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Vigan-City-Philippines-horse-carriage.jpg” alt=”Vigan City Philippines horse carriage” title_text=”Vigan City Philippines horse carriage” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Vigan City Philippines horse carriage” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    Vigan City

    We end our journey with a 2-hour drive south to Vigan City. One glance at Vigan City and you would not believe you are in Southeast Asia. This 16th century city is the best-preserved example of a Spanish colonial town in Asia, which has earned it the status of UNESCO World Heritage Centre. Horse-drawn carriages clomping down cobblestone streets in front of rustic mansions transport the visitor to another time.

    Certainly our 5 days in Ilocos introduce us to a way of life that is far different from the tourist beaches of the south in the Philippines. This is the center of history, architecture, and culture, mixed with natural wonders. We thank the Department of Tourism, Tourism Promotions Board, for the opportunity to experience this side of the Philippines and to share it with you.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_code admin_label=”Code for map” _builder_version=”4.16″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”][/et_pb_code][/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    What’s upscale?

    In Manila, stay at the excellent Conrad Manila. The Luna Hotel in Vigan City is an acceptable accommodation. Unfortunately, I cannot recommend the Chinese-owned Fort Ilocandia in Laoag.

    What’s budget?

    Food and lodging in the Philippines can be quite reasonable, especially in the Ilocos region.

     

     
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_social_media_follow follow_button=”on” admin_label=”Social Media Follow” _builder_version=”4.16″ link_shape=”rounded_rectangle” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=”instagram” url=”http://www.instagram.com/journeyswithstephen” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_color=”#517fa4″ bg_color=”#517fa4″ global_colors_info=”{}” follow_button=”on” url_new_window=”on”] Instagram [/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=”twitter” url=”http://www.twitter.com/journeystephen” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_color=”#00aced” bg_color=”#00aced” global_colors_info=”{}” follow_button=”on” url_new_window=”on”] Twitter [/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=”facebook” url=”http://www.facebook.com/journeyswithstephen” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_color=”#3b5998″ bg_color=”#3b5998″ global_colors_info=”{}” follow_button=”on” url_new_window=”on”] facebook [/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][/et_pb_social_media_follow][/et_pb_column][/et_pb_row][/et_pb_section]

  • History comes alive at Sweden’s Vasa Museum

    History comes alive at Sweden’s Vasa Museum

    [et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ admin_label=”section” _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row admin_label=”row” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}” column_structure=”3_4,1_4″][et_pb_column type=”3_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Acke didn’t want to be one of the 145 seamen aboard Sweden’s Vasa warship for its maiden voyage in 1628. The work was hard, wages were low, and living conditions were atrocious. And this voyage was to last just 1,300 meters before he would have to swim for his life.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Vasa-museum-warship-bow-view.jpg” alt=”Vasa museum warship bow view” title_text=”Vasa museum warship bow view” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Vasa museum warship bow view” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Imagine being transported back in time nearly 400 years to stand aside a real Swedish warship, the only surviving vessel of its kind from the 17th century. You can do just that at Sweden’s Vasa Museum in Stockholm, arguably the greatest maritime museum in the world. It’s not just the impressive ship, but also the amazing story behind it that enthralls more than a million visitors per year.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Vasa-museum-warship-gun-port.jpg” alt=”Vasa museum warship gun port” title_text=”Vasa museum warship gun port” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Vasa museum warship gun port” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Acke was a gunner taken on active service by conscription. The Vasa was equipped with a prodigious 64 guns occupying an unheard of two rows of heavy gun ports. It was to be one of the fateful design flaws.

    Acke made about 57 dalers in annual wages before food on board and material for clothing were deducted, leaving him with only about a quarter of that sum. Like all seamen, one set of jacket and breeches and a linen shirt were all that he owned and the only protection against the harsh weather. It was up to him to patch his one pair of gloves and shoes.

    When not stationed at the gun carriage Acke would remain deep in the battery deck. There, in semi-darkness, he would share space with the other seamen and typically 300 additional soldiers. He would also sleep there. But on August 10, 1628, there would be no sleep.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Vasa-museum-warship-stern-carvings.jpg” alt=”Vasa museum warship stern carvings” title_text=”Vasa museum warship stern carvings” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Vasa museum warship stern carvings” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Sweden was a naval power in the 1600s, protecting its interests in the Baltic region with a fleet of royal vessels. The Vasa was to be the crown jewel of the fleet, with a hull constructed of 1,000 oaks, masts more than 50 meters high and enough art carvings and sculptures to create the floating museum it would become. It took three years to build the magnificent ship.

    It was not a magnificent life for Acke. He used his wooden spoon and sheath-knife to eat out of a communal bowl. Food was a porridge made from barley groats and various dried foods, such as beans, peas, salt beef, pork and fish. The food was cooked in a cast-iron cauldron over a smoky open fire below deck. He washed it down with a daily ration of three liters of ale.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Vasa-museum-warship-model-cutout.jpg” alt=”Vasa museum warship model cutout” title_text=”Vasa museum warship model cutout” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Vasa museum warship model cutout” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]In general, the lack of fresh fruit and vegetables and poor hygiene contributed to rampant illness, with only primitive means of treatment. The ship’s barber was also its sole medical resource. In 1628, on one ship, two-thirds of the men were sick or dying or had been “cast overboard” (the term used for buried at sea).

    Still, King Gustavus II Adolphus and good people of Stockholm were immensely proud of their new warship. The King arranged for the maiden sailing to take place on a Sunday, so families would have the day off to watch the proceedings. Women and children joined the hundred-plus crew on board. Sailors set four of the Vasa’s ten sails and the guns fired a salute from their open portholes as she left the harbor.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/King-Gustavus-II-Adolphus-Vasa-museum.jpg” alt=”King Gustavus II Adolphus Vasa museum” title_text=”King Gustavus II Adolphus Vasa museum” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”King Gustavus II Adolphus Vasa museum” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Acke knew that, in spite of the hardships, he would have to watch his tongue. Anyone who complained about the food was put in irons and given bread and water for ten days. Keel-hauling was a common punishment. The offender was dropped head first into water and pulled with a rope under the keel to the other side of the ship. If he did not drown, his injuries often still led to his death.

    There was no keel-hauling on Sunday, August 10. It was a beautiful day to launch, with light winds. But when the Vasa left the harbor a stronger wind entered her sails and she began to heel over severely. Worse, water gushed through the open gun ports and the now unstable ship quickly sank.

    There was nothing Acke and the other seamen could do but try to escape flooded decks and swim for their lives back to shore. Fortunately, most of them lived.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Vasa-museum-warship-cannon-deck.jpg” alt=”Vasa museum warship cannon deck” title_text=”Vasa museum warship cannon deck” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Vasa museum warship cannon deck” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]This is just the beginning of the story of the Vasa. She was to lie at the bottom of the Stockholm harbor, enduring 333 years of failed salvage attempts. It wasn’t until 1961 that technology and innovated techniques were available to raise her.

    Then came the enormous job of dealing with the “world’s largest jigsaw puzzle” and the complexity and hazards of preservation. That preservation effort is still an ongoing challenge, engaging experts from around the world. In the meantime, we can marvel at this piece of history that has come alive for us in the 21st century!
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Vasa-museum-warship-stern-view.jpg” alt=”Vasa museum warship stern view” title_text=”Vasa museum warship stern view” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Vasa museum warship stern view” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.22.2″ _module_preset=”default” hover_enabled=”0″ sticky_enabled=”0″]

    Pictures can’t really do justice to the scale and wonder of this ship, submerged for more than 300 years. Watch my short video below for more perspective.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_video _builder_version=”4.22.2″ _module_preset=”default” src=”https://youtu.be/SXqFOP01gzk” hover_enabled=”0″ sticky_enabled=”0″][/et_pb_video][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Footnote: There is so much more to see and learn about the story of the Vasa. This article can only, I hope, peak your interest in visiting. I made two trips there, including a press event for the TBEX travel bloggers conference and left wanting to explore more. There is nothing like it in the world.

    Credits: Many thanks to the guides at the Vasa for their stories that inspired this article. Also thanks to Lisa Mansson, Vasa Museum Director. Finally, many facts and figures were gleaned from the Vasa Catalogue and its author, Erling Matz.

    Have you been to the Vasa Museum? Do you have any questions? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post.
    [/et_pb_text][/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    What’s upscale?

    Sweden has spared no expense in developing this incredible museum, which was literally built around the ship.

    Splurge for a Stockholm Pass, which includes transportation and museums such as the Vasa.

    What’s budget?

    The museum is easily accessible as a stop on the #7 Tram line or a walk to the ferry that connects to Gamla Stan.

     

     
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_social_media_follow follow_button=”on” admin_label=”Social Media Follow” _builder_version=”4.16″ link_shape=”rounded_rectangle” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=”instagram” url=”http://www.instagram.com/journeyswithstephen” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_color=”#517fa4″ bg_color=”#517fa4″ global_colors_info=”{}” follow_button=”on” url_new_window=”on”] Instagram [/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=”twitter” url=”http://www.twitter.com/journeystephen” _builder_version=”4.22.2″ background_color=”#000000″ bg_color=”#00aced” global_colors_info=”{}” follow_button=”on” url_new_window=”on”] Twitter [/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=”facebook” url=”http://www.facebook.com/journeyswithstephen” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_color=”#3b5998″ bg_color=”#3b5998″ global_colors_info=”{}” follow_button=”on” url_new_window=”on”] facebook [/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][/et_pb_social_media_follow][/et_pb_column][/et_pb_row][/et_pb_section]

  • China – U.S. tourism ready to soar

    China – U.S. tourism ready to soar

    [et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ admin_label=”section” _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row column_structure=”3_4,1_4″ admin_label=”row” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”3_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Those L.V. and Michael Kors handbags going home with Chinese tourists every year represent more than half the exports the U.S. sends to China. Yes, 57% of U.S. exports to China are the money spent by the 2.5 million Chinese visitors. And nearly as many Americans are touring China each year.

    It’s no surprise that Presidents Xi and Obama declared 2016 to be the Year of China-U.S. Tourism. I was fortunate to be invited by the Chinese National Tourism Administration to the ceremonies that kicked off the year in China. The biggest event was held at the Jinshanling section of The Great Wall in late March, a few weeks after the beginning of the Year of the Monkey.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Jinshanling-tourism-launch-ceremony.jpg” alt=”Jinshanling tourism launch ceremony” title_text=”Jinshanling tourism launch ceremony” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Jinshanling tourism launch ceremony” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]A launch ceremony entitled “1,000 Americans visiting The Great Wall” featured hundreds of local dancers in traditional costumes, speeches by officials of both countries and even a warm-up routine from 2014 Olympic ice dancing gold medalists, Americans Meryl Davis and Charlie White.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Stephen-Henson-Meryl-Davis-Charlie-White.jpg” alt=”Stephen Henson Meryl Davis Charlie White” title_text=”Stephen Henson Meryl Davis Charlie White” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Stephen Henson Meryl Davis Charlie White” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]I have climbed various sections of the Great Wall dozens of times over the years, but this venue was special. The restored Jinshanling section in Hebei province is spectacular, as was the blue-sky day and the costumed locals playing traditional instruments high above the countryside. What a way to kick off a year of tourism.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_video src=”https://youtu.be/ig5FyDcvOzg” admin_label=”Jinshanling string instrument video” _builder_version=”4.21.2″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][/et_pb_video][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Only 6% of Chinese have passports and only 3% of those people visited the U.S. last year. Yet they spent about $24 billion. With a growing middle class anxious to travel abroad, it’s no wonder China is expected to become the largest source of inbound tourism for the U.S. within the next few years. And appropo that visas between the two countries now carry a 10-year term!

    For a decade I have been hosting Americans who are seeking a custom travel experience in China. On this most recent visit, courtesy of the CNTA and Air China, I discovered even more places to take my fellow Americans.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Chengde-China-temple-travel-group.jpg” alt=”Chengde China temple travel group” title_text=”Chengde China temple travel group” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Chengde China temple travel group” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]I was part of a group of just 15 interesting people in the travel business from cities across the U.S. We spent a week together primarily in Beijing and Chengde, along with other Hebei cities. I had never been to where The Great Wall actually begins at the Bohai Sea, called Laolongtou or “Old Dragon’s Head.” If you imagine the shape of the Wall as it sprawls across northern China as a giant dragon, then this would be its head.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/China-Great-Wall-Laolongtou.jpg” alt=”China Great Wall Laolongtou” title_text=”China Great Wall Laolongtou” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”China Great Wall Laolongtou” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Nearby is another famous section of The Great Wall, Shanhaiguan, which translates to mountain-sea-pass. Built in 1381 during the Ming Dynasty, this was one of the most significant and heavily fortified passes in China. It is also known as Tianxia Diyi Guan or “First Pass Under Heaven.”
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Shanhaiguan-Great-Wall-China.jpg” alt=”Shanhaiguan Great Wall China” title_text=”Shanhaiguan Great Wall China” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Shanhaiguan Great Wall China” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]I think it is fine for Westerners on a first trip to China to confine themselves to a Great Wall visit near Beijing, probably Mutianyu, but there are some amazing sections to be explored on subsequent visits! Read more about those in a future post.

    Surprisingly, this was also my first visit to Chengde, despite its close proximity to Beijing, only about 3 hours away by bus on a very good highway. In a few years, given China’s propensity for building out infrastructure, there will also be both high-speed rail and an airport.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Chengde-China-mayor-secretary-Stephen-Henson.jpg” alt=”Chengde China mayor-secretary-Stephen Henson” title_text=”Chengde China mayor-secretary-Stephen Henson” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Chengde China mayor-secretary-Stephen Henson” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]I was fortunate to speak with the mayor and the party secretary of Chengde, as well as many other officials during our days (and many banquets and baijiu toasts) there. At the heart is the Chengde Mountain Resort, an expansive complex built during the 1700s as the Qing Dynasty’s Summer Palace. This UNESCO World Heritage Site offered a reprieve from the heat of Beijing.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/China-Chengde-Mountain-Resort.jpg” alt=”China Chengde Mountain Resort” title_text=”China Chengde Mountain Resort” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”China Chengde Mountain Resort” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]As if the Resort weren’t enough reason to visit Chengde, the Outlying Temples provide the clincher. Together, they are largest imperial palace-garden and temple complex in China. I will devote another post entirely to this impressive and historic site.

    As we like to say, China is a big country, with a great deal to experience. The same can be said for the United States. I recently hosted Chinese travelers to places as diverse as Las Vegas and The Grand Canyon (40% of Chinese tourists to the U.S. visit a national park). Despite some of the challenges of language I write about here, travel embraces understanding and brings our cultures closer together. The Year of China-U.S. Tourism supports these efforts.
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    What’s upscale?

    I always try to stay at the Westin Financial Street in Beijing, with a hotel tower and executive residence tower and the finest staff.

    The Jiahe International Hotel in Chengde is a Chinese hotel offering a true 4-star experience (except for coffee).

    What’s budget?

    Visits to The Great Wall, the Chengde Mountain Resort and most other Chinese landmarks are quite reasonably priced to attract a mass audience.

     

     
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  • How to see Prague’s Old Town in a day

    How to see Prague’s Old Town in a day

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    It turns out “Good King Wenceslas” wasn’t a king or even named Wenceslas, but he was good! And subsequently made a saint. Today all roads seem to lead us to Wenceslas Square, the gathering place for the Czech people for nearly every significant event in their tumultuous recent history. It’s a meaningful way to begin our day visiting the Old Town side of Prague.

    The Vltava River neatly divides Prague, almost to beckon, “Hey, spend a day on each side.” In another post, we spent a day on the castle side of the river. Today, our journey focuses on the right bank, home to the Old Town, Jewish Quarter and New Town.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image admin_label=”St Wenceslas upside down” src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/St-Wenceslas-upside-down.jpg” alt=”St Wenceslas upside down” title_text=”St Wenceslas upside down” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation_style=”none” animation_duration=”1000ms” animation_intensity_slide=”50%” show_bottom_space=”on”]

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    We are staying at the upscale Radisson Blu (formerly Sheraton Prague St. Charles Place), an interesting restored building and arguably the city’s best business hotel. It is in New Town, a good starting point. From here we will journey back in time. There are plenty of shops and little restaurants that line the streets. My favorite center is Lucerna Pasaz, a small retro-style indoor shopping center at Stepanska 61. Most notable, there is the satirical hanging statue of St. Wenceslas, who is riding on an upside down horse, courtesy of Czech artist David Cerny. It is freedom of speech at it’s finest.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image admin_label=”Wenceslas Square” src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Wenceslas-Square.jpg” alt=”Wenceslas Square” title_text=”Wenceslas Square” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation_style=”none” animation_duration=”1000ms” animation_intensity_slide=”50%” show_bottom_space=”on”]

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    All streets seem to lead us north to Wenceslas Square. It’s not a square in the traditional sense, but more of a long tree-lined boulevard leading to the original equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas in front of the National Museum. Now a fashionable shopping area, it is worthwhile to linger and appreciate the history of this place. It has been the gathering place of the Czech people for nearly every significant event over their last tumultuous couple of centuries, most recently the Velvet Revolution, celebrating the peaceful fall of Communism in 1989.

    This is a good time to remind readers that nothing quite takes the place of a private guide, who has lived through that history and can bring to life events, such as Prague Spring. With the help of our wonderful guide, Marketa, owner of Caput Regni, we walk all over this amazing part of the city listening to her stories. Like all kids at the time, she belonged to the Pionyr (Pioneers), a Soviet-style youth organization, wearing uniforms of white shirts and red kerchiefs.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image admin_label=”Marketa” src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Marketa.jpg” alt=”Marketa” title_text=”Marketa” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation_style=”none” animation_duration=”1000ms” animation_intensity_slide=”50%” show_bottom_space=”on”]

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    We must eventually move on, as our walk takes us to the Municipal House, Prague’s ornate concert hall, and from there to Old Town Square. One of the true highlights of a visit to Prague is to travel to the top of the Old Town Hall, also home to the much-photographed Astronomical Clock. The most breath-taking photos are to be garnered from the little 360-degree balcony at the top of the tower. More good news: you can take an elevator to the top. Even more good news: it’s cheap.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image admin_label=”Prague Old Town Square” src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Prague-Old-Town-Square.jpg” alt=”Prague Old Town Square” title_text=”Prague Old Town Square” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation_style=”none” animation_duration=”1000ms” animation_intensity_slide=”50%” show_bottom_space=”on”]

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    This side of the Vltava has many neighborhoods that can fascinate your special interests. I can’t begin to address all of them here. A good guidebook that delineates the city that way is Frommer’s “Prague Day by Day,” by Mark Baker. I got my copy from Pauline Frommer, whom I think really understands how people absorb travel information these days. Let me suffice to say that, regardless of your special interest, a trip through the Jewish Quarter (aka Josefov), close to Old Town, is time well spent.

    Old Town is also where the souvenir shops are to be found. The best gift for kids is clearly Krtek, the Little Mole. Created in the 1950s by Czech animator Zdenek, he became a favorite across the then Communist world. Puppets are also popular. For adults, there are lots of glass items and garnet jewelry.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image admin_label=”Krtek The Little Mole” src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Krtek-The-Little-Mole.jpg” alt=”Krtek The Little Mole” title_text=”Krtek The Little Mole” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation_style=”none” animation_duration=”1000ms” animation_intensity_slide=”50%” show_bottom_space=”on”]

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    All this walking has made us hungry. And I would be remiss if I didn’t note some places to eat. When people talk about cuisine, rarely does Czech food get mentioned in the same sentence as French or Italian – hey, it rarely gets mentioned at all. And with good reason. It was a tough 20th century for these guys, when a potato or loaf of bread sounded pretty good. It resulted in a cuisine famous for multiple kinds of dumplings, for instance.

    But wait, they also produce some of the best beer. In fact, Czechs per capita drink more beer than anyone else on the planet. As a result, we look for pubs and fairly simple restaurants and frankly, drank a lot of great beer! Of course, we had to try the original Budweiser Budvar, from the nearby town of Cesky Budejovice.

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    I will point out four places, all around $25 for two, including 3-4 half-liter beers. We eat English-worthy fish and onion rings at Fish & Chips, Dlouha 21, in a pretty section of Old Town. Tex-Mex food is tasty enough at Restaurace Jama (aka The Hollow), Jame 7. Café Risorante Pizzeria, Stepanska 14, doesn’t disappoint either. Finally, the star was Trattoria Cicala, Zitna 43, unimpressive from street-level, but with delightful Italian food served in the cellar.

    Tips and tricks.

    • I will admit it, I’m afraid of heights. But I have few problems with the views from the top of the Old Town Hall. If I can do it, so can you. Ask for discounts everywhere you can. I scored a ticket to the top for less than $3, thanks to a senior discount. Tram rides are cheaper by the 10-trip pack. Just keep asking if there are any discounts.
    • Prague is a compact, walkable city. The route I describe here, through New Town, Wenceslas Square, Old Town and Jewish Quarter can be done in a few hours or leisurely, in half a day. Still, I recommend a separate day for the Castle side of the river.

    Combining a quick trip to Prague with a visit to Budapest? Read my post about how to see Budapest in two days.

    Have any comments? If so, I would like to hear from you. Simply comment at the bottom of this post.

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    What’s upscale?

    Swiss Air let me bid on business-class lie-flat bed seats to get to Prague.

    A Prague-raised private guide is worth the money.

    Our suite at the Radisson Blu, an interesting restored building.

    Private car transfer from airport to city.

    The view from the astronomical tower is priceless.

    What’s budget?

    That view from the tower can be yours for less than US$3.

    Excellent trams and metro are easy to use and cost only about US$1.

    Food, hotels — compared to other European cities, Prague is quite reasonable.

    Eats: Cicala Trattoria, Fish & Chips 21 Dlouha, Restaurace Jama.

     

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  • Myanmar in a magical time machine

    Myanmar in a magical time machine

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    Modern culture is creeping into this South East Asian jewel. There is now a KFC in downtown Yangon. Toyotas are gridlocked from the airport to downtown. The National League for Democracy wins in a free election. Yes, Myanmar is rushing into the 21st century, seemingly skipping a few hundred years in the process. My advice to you – get here as soon as you can.

    I was fortunate to spend some time in Myanmar right before the historic national elections. There was excitement in the air. Rallies were held in the dusty streets of even small cities and villages. Businesses planned to close so their employees could travel back to their hometowns to vote (no one trusted absentee ballots). Yes, the election would have corruption. One village of 5,000 people had 12,000 registered voters, some known to be dead. Still, spirits were high. This is the dawn of a new, post-military era. “The Lady” (Aung San Suu Kyi) is back, stronger than ever.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image admin_label=”Brahma bulls cart Bagan Myanmar” src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Brahma-bulls-cart-Bagan-Myanmar.jpg” alt=”Brahma bulls cart Bagan Myanmar” title_text=”Brahma bulls cart Bagan Myanmar” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” background_layout=”light” text_orientation=”left” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”]

    Yet, with all this “progress,” Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) seems to be the magical land that time forgot. Travel just outside of a city and one sees Brahma bulls pulling carts and local markets where barter is a typical form of payment. Rice is grown in the summer, garlic in winter. Tomatoes grow on floating islands, held in place by long bamboo sticks.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image admin_label=”Monks Maha Gandayon monastery Mandalay” src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Monks-Maha-Gandayon-monastery-Mandalay.jpg” alt=”Monks Maha Gandayon monastery Mandalay” title_text=”Monks Maha Gandayon monastery Mandalay” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” background_layout=”light” text_orientation=”left” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”]

    Monks are everywhere. Indeed, every boy must become a monk, at least for a short while, some forever. One region, Bagan, has 4,416 temples. It’s like Angkor Wat on steroids. It is South East Asia without the hoards of tourists.

    I interviewed Hinn Moe Wai, Joint General Secretary of the Union of Myanmar Travel Association (UMTA). She kindly invited me to attend the Thadingyut Lighting Festival, a big national holiday in Myanmar. She spoke of the challenges of expanding tourism in a country largely known to the Western world for its military-backed government, regulations, and infrastructure issues. Add repression and income inequality to that list. There are still areas she called “a little unstable” and off-limits to foreign travelers.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image admin_label=”Minn Moe Wai UMTA Yangon Myanmar” src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Minn-Moe-Wai-UMTA-Yangon-Myanmar.jpg” alt=”Minn Moe Wai UMTA Yangon Myanmar” title_text=”Minn Moe Wai UMTA Yangon Myanmar” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” background_layout=”light” text_orientation=”left” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”]

    Visitors soared past 1 million in 2013, then doubled in 2014 and could hit 5 million in 2015. This has put a strain on infrastructure. Hotel rates have skyrocketed, as demand for better quality rooms exceeds supply. What that means to the upscale traveler on a budget is that your hotel costs will be higher than in neighboring Thailand and other South East Asia countries. New build was slow due to a lack of trust in landholders and developers, but that is changing rapidly.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image admin_label=”Yangon Air plane Bagan” src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Yangon-Air-plane-Bagan.jpg” alt=”Yangon Air plane Bagan” title_text=”Yangon Air plane Bagan” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” background_layout=”light” text_orientation=”left” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”]

    Infrastructure issues also manifest themselves in other ways. The easiest way to travel between major tourist areas is to fly. Trains are the butt of jokes and busses can eat a lot of time out of your travel plans. ATMs are finally starting to appear, but few local establishments take credit cards. The Internet in many places is spotty or slow at best. This is what it means to be off the grid!

    Buying tickets online is a challenge. It’s one of the reasons I recommend the upscale traveler use an agency, such as One Stop Travel, to handle everything. They provided me with a local guide and driver for each region, whose knowledge and help were priceless.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image admin_label=”Temples Bagan Myanmar” src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Temples-Bagan-Myanmar.jpg” alt=”Temples Bagan Myanmar” title_text=”Temples Bagan Myanmar” show_in_lightbox=”off” url_new_window=”off” animation=”off” sticky=”off” align=”left” force_fullwidth=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”] [/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” background_layout=”light” text_orientation=”left” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid”]

    What to make of a land both stuck in a magical time machine and rushing to be a modern tourist destination? It occurs to me that Myanmar is a little like Thailand must have been 20-30 years ago. We still love Thailand, but today it is harder to find the unbridled charm, the undiscovered beach or village life. That is still possible in Myanmar. But it won’t be forever. Get here as soon as you can. It is only a one-hour flight from Bangkok.

    Speaking of Thailand, some 2.6 million people have left Myanmar to live in Thailand, most in search of higher wages. You can read my story about a Myanmar woman working in a Bangkok market.

    I plan to write a number of posts going into more depth on life in Myanmar from my visits to Yangon, Bagan, Mount Popa, Mandalay, Inle Lake and elsewhere. Stay tuned!

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    What’s upscale?

    I used One Stop Travel & Tours to handle flights, hotels, guides, meals – everything, and I saved a lot of time and hassle. I highly recommend them, even if you are used to navigating on your own.

    I stayed in some pretty good 4-star properties.

    What’s budget?

    Except for hotels, most expenses are quite reasonable, especially the tasty Burmese food.

    Flights from Bangkok, as well as within the country, are cheap.

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