Journeys With Stephen

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  • 10 unusual things to do in Maui

    10 unusual things to do in Maui

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    Like everyone else, you’ve maneuvered the twisting road to Hana, braved the cold for sunrise at Haleakala, taken a sunset catamaran cruise, enjoyed the more authentic Old Lahaina luau, snorkeled off a famous beach. Are you ready for something a little more offbeat?

    We have stayed on Maui 10+ times over the years, now engaging in some different activities. And so, I bring you 10 unusual things to do in Maui.

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    1. Canoe among the sea turtles

    Sometimes you can be lucky enough to view a sea turtle, especially at the more remote spots such as Honokeana Bay. How about a near guarantee to see these magnificent creatures up close and personal from the relative comfort and safety of an outrigger canoe?

    We choose Maui Pacific Tours. There are 4 of us in the canoe, plus our guide, Barry, in the back. By leaving at 8:00am, the water is calm and the rowing pretty easy for all ages. The outrigger feature provides stability.

    Within a half hour we are among friendly or at least indifferent sea turtles, some of who literally bump against us. There are ample photo ops, and I feel comforted by the provided waterproof bag. We head out a few hundred meters from shore where the turtles live and also come closer in where they feed.

    I can’t recommend this enough, especially for folks like me who are too tentative to snorkel away from the beach.

    In the winter, add whale watching to your itinerary! A good choice these days is the Pacific Whale Foundation.

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    2. Sugar cane vodka and rum

    Maui used to have a lot of sugar cane mills, with vast swaths of cane fields covering the island. In 2016 the last of the mills closes. Does this mean the end of sugar cane on the island? Ocean Vodka to the rescue! Drive to upcountry Maui, make a turn onto Omaopio Road near Kula and you will discover Ocean Vodka Organic Farm and Distillery.

    We arrive at 4:00pm, just in time for the last tour of the day, which is informative and includes vodka and rum tasting at the end. In a nutshell, some third-generation Maui residents have created a way to make vodka, not from grains or potatoes, but from sugar cane grown on their 80-acre farm. The property is beautiful, sitting in the lowlands of Haleakala. Take the kids to the nearby Surfing Goat Dairy, and then treat yourself to this adult getaway.

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    3. Sunset and stargazing at Haleakala

    Everybody thinks the best time to visit the Pu’u’ula’ula Summit in Haleakala National Park is sunrise. They get up at 3:00am, drive in total darkness, bundle up in blankets (who brings a coat to Maui?) and wait for the spectacular event. Some people bicycle down from there.

    That’s great, but I think the sunset experience can be even more rewarding. Travel to the summit in daylight and pleasant temperatures and find yourself with far fewer crowds, able to park at the highest parking lot near the observatories. If you are lucky, you will have passed through clouds to get there and look down on them from the 10,023-foot (3,055-meter) summit. The view is otherworldly.

    You can divert for some hikes on the Mars-like surface on the way up or make it a straight shot from Ocean Vodka (no pun intended).

    But that’s not all. We stay a while after sunset and the soon see hundreds of bright stars, then thousands, then millions. There are no city lights to interfere with an experience that doesn’t even require a telescope. Note, the upscale traveler can still want to opt for a guided stargazing tour.

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    4. The Naikalele Point blowhole

    Still craving incredible natural phenomena? Maui seems to have an unending supply, and the blowhole at Naikalele Point on Maui’s north shore amazes. At high tide, with the right wave action, huge geyser-like spouts shoot into the sky every few minutes or even seconds.

    This wonder of nature is at mile marker 32.5, just a 25-minute drive from Ka’anapali, followed by a 15-minute hike down to the water’s edge. It’s not the easiest walk, but you don’t have to go all the way down to ocean’s edge for the experience. There have never been more than about a dozen people visiting on my treks there, so it provides both solitude and exhilaration.

    Want a bonus feature? At mile marker 32 we hike to a labyrinth of stones and a lighthouse. Double bonus? Keep traveling east around the northern coast for a harrowing drive that rivals the road to Hana.

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    5. Support the locals with banana bread, shrimp trucks and more

    It may be convenient to stop at Costco or Target near the airport or make a grocery run to Safeway. But you haven’t done much to sample the local cuisine or fully support the local economy. I have some other suggestions.

    If your plane arrives on a Tuesday, Wednesday or Friday, go straight to the farmer’s market at Queen Ka’ahumanu Center in Kahului. We stock up on local fruits and vegetables and buy breads from Anacel, pictured here. She stays up all night baking some of the best banana bread and honey wheat bread you have ever tasted.

    Did that make you hungry? Skip the fast food joints and head up Kahului Beach Road a few minutes to the Geste Shrimp Truck. Nothing but shrimp served four ways in a mixed plate (cash only). You are in Hawaii now.

    I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Da Kitchen. We are upscale on a budget, and here is where the budget comes in. Enormous portions of eclectic local food at reasonable prices. Dining out in Maui can be pricey and sometimes mediocre – this is neither. On Koloa Street, near the airport.

    Upcountry? Avoid the expensive places and dine at Kula Bistro, which also has great baked goods.

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    6. Attend a local fair and ask questions to the residents

    Too often we visit a place and fail to interact with local residents. My advice is to include local, not just tourist-aimed activities in your itinerary.

    This time we attend the Maui Upcountry Fair in Makawao. Sure it’s a little like typical county fairs, with judging for best hog or rabbit and a little rodeo, but also it is a chance to speak with real Maui folks. I have a long discussion about the closure of the last sugar mill, which puts 700 residents out of a job (but also ends what had been a controversial relationship with the company). I will devote an entire post to this interesting subject.

    We go to the MACC (Maui Arts and Cultural Center) for a concert, where there are no tourists.

    I strike up a conversation with Dr. George Harker, aka Dr. Leisure, as he explains his crusade for protecting the Hawaiian monk seal. And he tells me the story of the deer bones on the dashboard of his truck. More on that another time too.

    These people will enrich your stay. Don’t just be a tourist!

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    7. Be the lone visitor at a state monument

    Haleki’i-Pihana Heiau State Monument sits on a ridge in Wailuku, just minutes from Kahului. The site played an important role in Hawaiian history and is on the National Register of Historic Places. We are the only visitors because few people know about it. Sure, not much remains today besides the rocks and foundations of a tiki house and a sacrificial temple, but we can feel the history as we climb among the stones – and the view is pretty nice too.

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    8. Take a behind-the-scenes tour at Maui Ocean Center

    Everybody knows about the Maui Ocean Center, which sits on Ma’alaea Harbor. You can’t miss it as you drive from central to west Maui on Highway 30. Tourists seem to appreciate this relatively small aquarium for its authenticity – all the species are from Hawaii.

    We take a visit one step further by signing up for the behind-the-scenes tour. There are just 9 of us this afternoon, accompanied by a guide and a marine naturalist. We personally feed young sea turtles and sharks and stingrays.

    We learn a lot in the curatorial lab, view live sea horses and touch the top of a jellyfish. Check it out. There is even an occasional “sleep with the sharks” tour, and certified SCUBA divers can “dive with the sharks.”

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    9. Get a jagua temporary tattoo

    What better place to “go native” than on a Maui vacation? The island has loads of tattoo parlors. My daughter visits one for a more natural temporary tattoo, made from the juice of the jagua fruit. Photos and memories may remain, but the artwork gradually fades away after a few weeks.

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    10. Skip the hotels and stay in a vacation villa

    Most people spend about a week in Maui. With a stay that long, I strongly recommend choosing a vacation villa. Maui has an abundant supply of timeshares, and it has created a secondary market for vacationers.

    One of my favorites is the Westin Ka’anapali Ocean Resort Villas. We lounge on our balcony, drinking rum and POG, watching people visit the pool or stroll steps to the beautiful beach. To our right, two dads are barbecuing chicken and burgers for dinner while downing Longboard brews. To our left, there is a lei-making class next to the outdoor restaurant and bar.

    Most people stay in hotels on Maui, which can be very nice. I would never stay anywhere else but a vacation villa. Breakfast for 4 in a hotel? About $100. Breakfast in the kitchen of your expansive villa, where you brew a pot of Kona coffee and whip up macadamia nut pancakes? About $10.

    Whether you choose to go the Airbnb route or a Westin property, vacation villas are the perfect way to achieve Upscale Travel on a Budget. Another place I like is the Maui Eldorado, a short walk from Ka’anapali Beach.

    11. Bonus idea: Fly a plane!

    After writing this post, I experienced another unusual thing I liked so much that I wrote another post about it. Check out: You can pilot a plane on Maui.

    Do you have any unusual things to do in Maui? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post!

    Interested in other Hawaiian Islands? Check out our post about pros and cons for the first-time Hawaii visitor.

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    What’s upscale?

    The Westin Ka’anapali Ocean Resort Villas provide a luxurious home on one of the world’s best beaches.

    Maui Pacific Tours makes interacting with sea turtles both fun and easy to do.

    What’s budget?

    Buying local food and eating at local restaurants supports the local residents, tastes better and is cheaper than resort food.

     

     

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_social_media_follow follow_button=”on” _builder_version=”4.16″ link_shape=”rounded_rectangle” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=”instagram” url=”http://www.instagram.com/journeyswithstephen” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_color=”#517fa4″ bg_color=”#517fa4″ global_colors_info=”{}” follow_button=”on” url_new_window=”on”] Instagram [/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=”twitter” url=”http://www.twitter.com/journeystephen” _builder_version=”4.22.2″ background_color=”#000000″ bg_color=”#00aced” global_colors_info=”{}” follow_button=”on” url_new_window=”on”] Twitter [/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=”facebook” url=”http://www.facebook.com/journeyswithstephen” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_color=”#3b5998″ bg_color=”#3b5998″ global_colors_info=”{}” follow_button=”on” url_new_window=”on”] facebook [/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][/et_pb_social_media_follow][/et_pb_column][/et_pb_row][/et_pb_section]

  • Which Hawaiian island for the first-time visitor?

    Which Hawaiian island for the first-time visitor?

    [et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ admin_label=”section” _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row column_structure=”3_4,1_4″ admin_label=”row” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”3_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Do you want balmy, soft sand beaches and plenty of ocean activities? Do you want mountainous interiors with jungles and waterfalls? Do you want good food and drink to go with a genuine Hawaiian spirit? Guess what? You haven’t narrowed your choice of islands. It’s going to take some more effort to figure out where to go first. I will help you make that “upscale on a budget” decision.

    Let’s start by narrowing the field. Hawaii consists of eight major islands, but only four are considered single tourist destinations. They are Oahu, Kauai, Maui and Hawaii (The Big Island). Now it gets more difficult. I will discuss the options, along with their pros and cons.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Oahu-Hawaii-Waikiki-Diamond-Head.jpg” alt=”Oahu, Hawaii Waikiki Diamond Head” title_text=”Oahu, Hawaii Waikiki Diamond Head” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Oahu, Hawaii Waikiki Diamond Head” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Why not cruise to all four islands?

    In fact, all the major cruise lines serve up an itinerary of four islands in a week.

    Pros:

    • If your goal is to get a little flavor of each island to determine for yourself which ones to come back to, then this could be your answer. I’m adopting this strategy for a Scandinavian cruise to 5 countries, for example.

    Cons:

    • The cruise ports are in the worst parts of the islands; Kahului, Maui, for instance, is a good 1-hour+ drive from anything worth seeing, and you only have so many hours in port.
    • It’s difficult to watch sunrise at Haleakala or sunset from Kona when you’ve got to be back on the boat.

    Conclusion:

    • I think the upscale traveler on a budget will be happier selecting one island and spending a week there, really kicking back and settling in to the Hawaiian lifestyle. There are better cruise options elsewhere in the world.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Hawaii-shoreline.jpg” alt=”Hawaii shoreline” title_text=”Hawaii shoreline” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Hawaii shoreline” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Hawaii (The Big Island)

    The island of Hawaii is normally called the Big Island as to not confuse it with the State of Hawaii, which is made up of all the islands. Got it? And it is big, as large as all the other islands put together.

    Pros:

    • There is a lot of diversity, from the Kona coffee plantations on the west coast to wetter Hilo and nearby Akaka Falls on the east coast to Volcano National Park in the south.
    • This is one of the few places in the world where you can walk on lava flows and actually experience new land being created; or take a helicopter ride over the volcano – these are bucket list items.

    Cons:

    • Big means a lot of time traveling. It can take several hours by rental car to travel between these natural attractions. Most people wind up staying on the drier west coast.
    • The volcano can be spectacular or not, depending on its whim; it is possible to have expectations exceeded or to be underwhelmed.

    Conclusion:

    • Volcano National Park is a must see, but leave it for a future Hawaiian visit. You will be back.

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    Kauai

    In many ways Kauai is like Hawaii before all the development changed the landscape. It lives up to its nickname, The Garden Isle.

    Pros:

    • This island is so beautiful it almost begs the upscale traveler to view it all from a helicopter ride and is a spectacular way to see the Napali coast (which can also be rafted).
    • Be mesmerized by Waimea Canyon or Wailua Falls, and then go tubing in an old sugar cane irrigation ditch.

    Cons:

    • Part of Kauai’s beauty comes at the expense of activities. There aren’t as many things to do here as on Maui or Oahu, for example.
    • Kauai’s populated areas also tend to get more rain than their counterparts on other islands. It takes rain to create a garden isle, after all.

    Conclusion:

    • If your idea of Hawaii is a laid-back paradise where you can spend much of your time on pristine beaches, this could be the place for you. And Kauai certainly has unique things to do. But the first-time visitor might need to experience more. Make Kauai your next visit.

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    Oahu

    There is a popular tourist magazine called Oahu – 101 Things To Do. The title alone describes the appeal of this island to nearly 5 million annual visitors – it offers a little of everything.

    Pros:

    • If a cruise ship can offer you a taste of the Hawaiian Islands in a week, Oahu can do that without leaving the island. History, such as Pearl Harbor and Bishop Museum, check. Famous beaches, such as Waikiki, check. Shopping and nightlife in Honolulu, check. Amazing shoreline and surf, such as the North Shore, check. Well, you get the idea.
    • This is the one island where you can experience a lot without needing a car. Stay in Waikiki and much is available to you, including reasonably priced accommodations and tours to other areas. Hike to the top of Diamond Head crater for sunrise, stroll the beach, shop, eat in a fine restaurant, take a spectacular sunset cruise – all without stepping into a vehicle.
    • But if you do rent a car, circling the island is an awesome day trip.
    • There are more international flights direct to Honolulu and generally lower prices than to the other islands.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Honolulu-Diamond-Head-cityscape-Hawaii.jpg” alt=”Honolulu Diamond Head cityscape Hawaii” title_text=”Honolulu Diamond Head cityscape Hawaii” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Honolulu Diamond Head cityscape Hawaii” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    Cons:

    • Did I mention Oahu was the most popular island? Some people get to Honolulu and are dismayed to find a large city with serious traffic jams, crowded beaches, and long lines of people just to get into a touristy restaurant. This is not their tropical island paradise.

    Conclusion:

    • If your traveling party wants it all or simply can’t agree on what it wants, Oahu may be your answer. There is something for everyone, although you might have to deal with the distractions to enjoy the attractions. A candidate for a first-time visit.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/North-Kaanapali-Beach-Maui-Hawaii.jpg” alt=”North Ka’anapali Beach Maui Hawaii” title_text=”North Ka’anapali Beach Maui Hawaii” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”North Ka’anapali Beach Maui Hawaii” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    Maui

    If there were a best of both worlds – popular, yet majestic – Maui would be the choice. More than 2 million visitors flock to this island because it offers the diversity of activities of Oahu without the urban drawbacks.

    Pros:

    • You can engage in every ocean-related activity you can imagine – kayaks, sailboats, catamarans, outriggers, snorkel, snuba, scuba, submarines, and more. Or just pick your color of incredible beach – white, gold, red, or black sand.
    • Haleakala National Park features a dormant crater that is like walking on Mars, with a breathtaking view at either sunrise or sunset.
    • You can even pilot a plane for a day over Maui!

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Haleakala-Maui-Hawaii.jpg” alt=”Haleakala Maui Hawaii” title_text=”Haleakala Maui Hawaii” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Haleakala Maui Hawaii” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    • Maui’s dry west side has charming upscale destinations, from Wailea to Ka’anapali to Kapalua, with world-class beaches, dining and golf courses. The wet east side enables the one-of-a-kind Road to Hana experience. And in the middle is everything from jungle to pineapple and sugar cane to cowboy country.
    • Despite the horrific 2023 fire that destroyed historic Lahaina town, most of Maui survives, thrives, and needs your tourism dollars.

    Cons:

    • The list of cons is a very specific one. If you must have a big city, there is none. If you want paradise without any people, it will be challenging to find.

    Conclusion:

    • It’s easy to see why Maui County is the fastest growing county in the United States. People visit here, and they want to come back; some decide to stay forever.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Westin-Ocean-Resort-Villas-Maui-Hawaii.jpg” alt=”Westin Ocean Resort Villas Maui Hawaii” title_text=”Westin Ocean Resort Villas Maui Hawaii” align_tablet=”center” align_phone=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Westin Ocean Resort Villas Maui Hawaii” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” hover_enabled=”0″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

    Which Hawaiian island for the first-time visitor?

    Not to waffle on this subject, but it is a matter of interest. If your travel group were keen on geology, it would be hard to pass up The Big Island, with Maui a close second. If you require a total laid-back atmosphere, consider Kauai. If you must have urban style to mix with the beach, the clear choice would be Oahu.

    My recommendation for the greatest appeal to everyone is Maui. Personally, I have been to every island, but Maui is where we return to more than the others combined. Luxury, convenience, nature, culture, cuisine, weather, activities – Maui has it all. I can’t wait to go again soon!

    Have you been to Maui before? Here is my post on 10 unusual things to do in Maui.

    Would you like some further help? Please comment at the bottom of the page. Here’s what helps me: What season you will travel and for how many days? A family? A couple? What are the things you most like to do? I try to respond to every comment!

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_code admin_label=”Code for map” _builder_version=”4.16″ saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”][/et_pb_code][/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    What’s upscale?

    The Westin Ocean Resort Villas on Ka’anapali Beach on Maui are popular luxury timeshare condos that can be booked like a hotel room from the Starwood website.

    My personal favorite for Honolulu is the Westin Moana Surfrider Hotel, right on Waikiki Beach.

    Try numerous water activities, from snorkeling to snuba to kayaks to outrigger canoes to sailboats to catamarans; nothing is cheap, but the memories last forever.

    What’s budget?

    There are scores of timeshare properties in Hawaii, and the competition can drive bargains, especially outside of peak travel times. Try Airbnb, TripAdvisor and other vacation rental sites, and always read the reviews first.

     

     
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_social_media_follow follow_button=”on” admin_label=”Social Media Follow” _builder_version=”4.16″ link_shape=”rounded_rectangle” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=”instagram” url=”http://www.instagram.com/journeyswithstephen” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_color=”#517fa4″ bg_color=”#517fa4″ global_colors_info=”{}” follow_button=”on” url_new_window=”on”] Instagram [/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=”twitter” url=”http://www.twitter.com/journeystephen” _builder_version=”4.22.2″ background_color=”#000000″ bg_color=”#00aced” global_colors_info=”{}” follow_button=”on” url_new_window=”on”] Twitter [/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][et_pb_social_media_follow_network social_network=”facebook” url=”http://www.facebook.com/journeyswithstephen” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_color=”#3b5998″ bg_color=”#3b5998″ global_colors_info=”{}” follow_button=”on” url_new_window=”on”] facebook [/et_pb_social_media_follow_network][/et_pb_social_media_follow][/et_pb_column][/et_pb_row][/et_pb_section]

  • How to see Kyoto in a weekend

    How to see Kyoto in a weekend

    [et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ admin_label=”section” _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_row admin_label=”row” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” global_colors_info=”{}” column_structure=”3_4,1_4″][et_pb_column type=”3_4″ _builder_version=”4.16″ custom_padding=”|||” global_colors_info=”{}” custom_padding__hover=”|||”][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]I am dealing with the urban sprawl and hectic pace of Tokyo, and I long for a more manageable Japanese cultural experience. Kyoto is just a couple of hours away by bullet train. Is it worth trying to see Kyoto with just a weekend to spare? The answer is yes!

    I often visit a place the first time on a “highlights” schedule to determine if I would want to return and spend more time or not. One might argue that two days would not do Kyoto justice. I would argue that two days begins to give one the appreciation that this is a special region worth a deeper exploration, but still satisfying for a short visit. So here goes!
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Shinkansen-train-Tokyo-to-Kyoto.jpg” alt=”Shinkansen train Tokyo to Kyoto” title_text=”Shinkansen train Tokyo to Kyoto” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Shinkansen train Tokyo to Kyoto” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” hover_enabled=”0″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

    I depart Tokyo’s Shinjuku station Friday morning on the Shinkansen bullet train for a direct trip to Kyoto. We reach speeds of 320 km/hr. By lunchtime I have checked into the Westin Miyako and am ready to explore some temples or shrines.

    First we need to understand the difference between a temple and a shrine. Westerners could think of it as the difference between a church and a synagogue. The Shinto religion, often associated with more earthly matters, is practiced at a shrine. Buddhism, the religion of more spiritual matters, is practiced at a temple. That’s a simplification, but it works for now.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Monks-at-Ginkaku-ji-temple.jpg” alt=”Monks at Ginkaku-ji temple” title_text=”Monks at Ginkaku-ji temple” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Monks at Ginkaku-ji temple” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]So we must visit both a shrine and a temple. But there are thousands to choose from. This weekend we will see the three I would suggest on a short first-time trip.

    Ginkaku-ji Temple (The Silver Pavilion)

    From my hotel, this temple is at the end of a pleasant stroll along an old canal lined with cherry trees. The adjacent little alley is called “The Path of Philosophy.” It is also temple row, with inviting stops at Nanzen-ji Temple, Eikan-do Temple and several others. At the end of the path we reach our destination.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Ginkaku-ji-temple-cemetery-Kyoto.jpg” alt=”Ginkaku-ji temple cemetery Kyoto” title_text=”Ginkaku-ji temple cemetery Kyoto” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Ginkaku-ji temple cemetery Kyoto” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]While it is called The Silver Pavilion, it is not coated in silver leaf. Instead, this 15th century temple is a perfect example of a complex of buildings and gardens and woods that inspires peace and tranquility. You could be hundreds of miles from the city, but you are not.

    In some ways Ginkaku-Ji (aka Higashiyama Jisho-Ji) will become my favorite temple in Kyoto. The crowds seem to be elsewhere, and one can reflect and appreciate all things natural and spiritual. I stroll the grounds, watch monks, and see a little fountain with water shooting out of a dragon’s mouth. A tiny cemetery is both reverent and picturesque. Allow a couple of hours for the whole experience in tranquility.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Dragon-fountain-Ginkaku-ji-temple.jpg” alt=”Dragon fountain Ginkaku-ji temple” title_text=”Dragon fountain Ginkaku-ji temple” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Dragon fountain Ginkaku-ji temple” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” hover_enabled=”0″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]

    Friday evening I visit the famous Gion or Geisha district.

    Gion is the most famous district of Kyoto, with traditional homes and businesses tucked neatly along backstreets. The best way to see it is with a guide. WaRaiDo offers an English-speaking guide who conducts about a 3-hour walking tour on Friday evenings, perfect for our weekend getaway.

    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Stephen-and-kimono-girl-in-Kyoto.jpg” alt=”Stephen Henson and kimono girl in Kyoto” title_text=”Stephen Henson and kimono girl in Kyoto” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Stephen and kimono girl in Kyoto” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]You will learn more than you thought possible about the world of Maiko (apprentices) and Geisha culture. It is a great way to be immersed into the history, life, and entertainment of Kyoto. As a tip, I suggest arriving to the tour early so you can get to know the guide and bombard her with a million questions before others arrive.

    We have a lot to accomplish on Saturday, our one full day in Kyoto – shopping, a shrine, dinner, a street fair – so let’s get going!

    I’m not a big shopper, especially when time is limited. But I do enjoy a local city market. Kyoto has several, but none better than the famous Nishiki Market. From fashion to food, this area, which actually encompasses several streets just off the main shopping drag downtown, is a treasure.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Kyoto-octopus-and-quail-egg.jpg” alt=”Kyoto octopus and quail egg” title_text=”Kyoto octopus and quail egg” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Kyoto octopus and quail egg” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Boutiques range from a store where you can buy Japanese kimono sandals with matching purse to a dedicated Hello Kitty store. I find a shop that sells local crafts and buy a little carved and hand-painted penguin for my daughter.

    There are plenty of food stands. I can’t bring myself to try quail egg cooked inside the head of an octopus, but a homemade green tea ice cream cone hits the spot on a hot day.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Kyoto-green-tea-ice-cream-cone.jpg” alt=”Kyoto green tea ice cream cone” title_text=”Kyoto green tea ice cream cone” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Kyoto green tea ice cream cone” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]

    It’s then a short subway ride to Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine.

    This is number one on the greatest hits of Japanese shrines. The immense, hilly grounds are marked by thousands of bright orange torii gates that seemingly wind on forever. Eerie graveyards and miniature shrines highlight the breaks between them. There is plenty of history, too. The shrine was dedicated to the god of rice and sake back in the 8th century.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Fushimi-Inari-shrine-posts.jpg” alt=”Fushimi Inari shrine posts” title_text=”Fushimi Inari shrine posts” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Fushimi Inari shrine posts” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Photographers will have a field day here. Hikers will be delighted by the enormous hilly layout. People-watchers will see plenty of kimono-clad girls. Casual visitors can just take in a portion and leave the rest for another time – and there must be one!

    The shrine is just a few-minute walk from either the JR Inari station (JR Nara Line) or Fushimiinari station (Keihan Line). You must allow at least a couple of hours for walking the grounds, but a half-day is preferable.

    All this walking has made me hungry!

    Japanese food is great. I’m guessing this is not the first time you have heard that. The biggest challenge in Kyoto is trying to choose from a seemingly endless array of cool restaurants that line the Kamo River, which slices through the heart of the city. In the summer, open-air dining areas unique to Kyoto, called Yuka, are constructed. That even extends the myriad of options.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Kyoto-restaurant-sign.jpg” alt=”Kyoto restaurant sign” title_text=”Kyoto restaurant sign” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Kyoto restaurant sign” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]The place I choose for dinner specializes in grilled meats. The menu includes duck, deer, boar, ostrich and horse. Inspired by their restaurant sign (see photo above), I’m obliged to order the chicken/pork/beef steak combination. The edamame is the best I have ever eaten and the fries are spiced with wasabi. I wash it all down with a few local craft brews. Gochidou sama desita.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Kyoto-restaurant-dinner.jpg” alt=”Kyoto restaurant dinner” title_text=”Kyoto restaurant dinner” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Kyoto restaurant dinner” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]Strolling down Kiyamachi Street after dinner, I encounter a nighttime local street fair. A hundred people are participating in some kind of local dance, many dressed up in kimonos. There are little games (I try hard not to win a goldfish). And for sale, cans of beer floating in tubs of icy water (I try hard to win this game). Everyone is smiling and friendly to me, though I seem to be the only foreigner crashing the party.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Kyoto-street-fair-dance.jpg” alt=”Kyoto street fair dance” title_text=”Kyoto street fair dance” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Kyoto street fair dance” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]It looks like the nightlife is just beginning in Kyoto, but it has been a long day. Plus, we have one more temple to visit early Sunday morning.

    Kinkaku-ji Temple (The Golden Pavilion)

    This splendid temple is literally the symbol for Kyoto. Originally built in the 14th century, the current gold leaf-coated structure was reconstructed in 1955.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Kinkaku-ji-Golden-Pavilion-reflection.jpg” alt=”Kinkaku-ji Golden Pavilion reflection” title_text=”Kinkaku-ji Golden Pavilion reflection” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Kinkaku-ji Golden Pavilion reflection” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]The biggest drawback to such a magnificent temple is its popularity. I arrive right at its 9:00 am opening, and there are already busloads of tourists from China, Italy and elsewhere. Waiting would not have helped; it is even more crowded when I leave. Everyone jockeys for the best spot to capture the temple with its reflection in the pond that leads to it. Do not let the crowds deter you. You will have a great experience.

    Note, try to go on a sunny day. The temple and its reflection look best in the morning sun. The grounds are also quite beautiful.
    [/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https://journeyswithstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Kinkaku-ji-Golden-Pavilion-closeup.jpg” alt=”Kinkaku-ji Golden Pavilion closeup” title_text=”Kinkaku-ji Golden Pavilion closeup” align_tablet=”center” align_last_edited=”on|desktop” admin_label=”Kinkaku-ji Golden Pavilion closeup” _builder_version=”4.16″ use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” animation=”off” sticky=”off” always_center_on_mobile=”on” global_colors_info=”{}” align_phone=”center”][/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Text” _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” use_border_color=”off” border_color=”#ffffff” border_style=”solid” global_colors_info=”{}”]The second drawback is that the Golden Pavilion is on the far west side of Kyoto. Public transportation is not that convenient. Upscale travelers should splurge for a taxi to and from the temple. They are plentiful and save precious time too.

    Speaking of time, I must now jump in the hotel courtesy van and be shuttled back to the main train station for my bullet train back to Tokyo. In just a little over 48 hours we have managed to escape the trappings of the metropolis and immerse in a bit of Japan that is both ancient and modern, religious and secular, upscale and budget.

    Mata atode, Kyoto!
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    What’s upscale?

    Reserve “Green Car” seats on the Shinkansen bullet train between Tokyo and Kyoto. It is sort of the equivalent of business class on a plane, at a reasonable cost.

    The suite at The Westin Miyako overlooks a traditional Japanese garden and is adjacent to a mountain trail.

    It is more enjoyable to use a local guide as you tour Gion, rather than try to manage it yourself.

     

    What’s budget?

    Temples and shrines are either free or a small donation.

    A lot of competition seems to keep restaurant and lodging costs lower than Tokyo.

    The meticulous subways are convenient and inexpensive.

     
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  • Why it pays to be loyal to a hotel chain

    Why it pays to be loyal to a hotel chain

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    The hotel in Bangkok gave me a luxurious suite. In the morning I feasted on their sumptuous buffet breakfast. They granted me a 7:00pm checkout, since I was taking a late-night flight. All for free. It pays to be loyal to a hotel chain, in this case the former Starwood, now Marriott program.

    To be upscale on a budget almost requires one to be loyal to travel programs from hotels to airlines. Yet, I have met so many people who say, “Oh, I just stay in the convention’s recommended hotel.” “I just picked a flight on Expedia.” They are missing out on a chance to move upscale, while still holding to a budget.

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    Personally, I made a decision more than a decade ago to try to stay in Starwood properties whenever possible. They offered plenty of choices across a range of prices, with The Luxury Collection and St. Regis on the top end, then Westin, W, Le Meridien and Sheraton, and specialty brands, like Aloft and Elements. With more than a thousand properties in 100 countries, I could usually find what I was looking for. I first achieved Gold status. Then 50 nights in a year led to Platinum privileges. Finally, 10 years in a row of Platinum earned me Starwood Lifetime Platinum.

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    So what? Well, for example, as a Platinum member I usually book the cheapest room possible, because I know the hotel will upgrade me, often to a suite. Breakfast is included, as is a 4:00pm checkout. Lots of things that we all hate to pay for are complimentary, such as Internet, bottled water, fitness centers, and club-level rooms. I can even book a room when the hotel is sold out. I earn bonus points, which keeps me playing the game. If I absolutely require a suite, say on a family trip, I am awarded a number of suite nights a year to tap into. The list goes on.

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    The Starwood program I refer to got swallowed up in the 2016 acquisition of Starwood Hotels & Resorts by Marriott, and in August, 2018 they finally combined the programs. The result is a lot more properties to choose from, but a lot more people vying for the perks that come with elite membership. There are other good loyalty programs out there, depending on your preference. Just do your research and select the right program for you. Then stay loyal!

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    I plan a trip to Stockholm for the TBEX conference. The closest hotel to the convention center is the Radisson Blu, with a special TBEX rate of about US$200, including tax. I would be tempted to stay there, with the convention just a 5-minute walk from my 24-square meter room. But just 3 minutes further away is a Starwood/Marriott program hotel (Sheraton), where I could probably score a 37-square meter junior suite, buffet breakfast, etc., for the about the same price. Or I could drop the price to US$110, if I wanted to use some points each night (cash and points option) or totally free, if I wanted to cash in more points per night.

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    Ah, the points game. It’s not just about using airline miles. If you stay in 10 different hotel chains over the course of a year, you will rack up a scattering of points in each, basically of little value. But if you stayed loyal to the same brand, you may have earned enough points for a free night. The hotel in Bangkok I mentioned at the beginning of this article was the Sheraton Grande Suhkumvit, a Luxury Collection hotel. Besides the 4-room suite, amazing world-class buffet breakfast, and free drinks and food in the Library, I was staying for free (using points).

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    Don’t forget the almighty credit card. There is a reason the Starwood Preferred Guest (SPG) American Express card is one of the most popular among frequent travelers. I use this card a lot, especially for hotel stays, and it gives me enough points for about 10-12 free nights every year. Okay, I spend a lot. But if you figure an average upscale room in a major city costs about US$300 per night, including taxes, that Amex card can save me more than US$3,000 a year! Want even more flexibility? I also carry the Chase Sapphire Reserve card, whose elite rewards points can be used for airlines, hotels and more. What’s in your wallet?

    You need to figure out what a point is worth to you. In my Stockholm example, to cash in 10K points in lieu of paying about US$200 a night, would make each point worth only 2 cents. The cash and points option is worse; each point is worth about 1.5 cents. I should pay the full rate and save my points for a better deal. I recently spent a weekend at the Westin Miyako Kyoto, Japan, where my room would have cost about US$500 a night. However, I was able to get a suite for just 10K points a night, so each point was worth 5 cents!

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    If you travel a lot and follow my advice, you can build up zillions of points to use in select situations, like my Kyoto example. So get out of that cramped room and enjoy suites and other amenities you might be missing out on today!

    Coming up I will explain why it pays to be airline loyal too. Subscribe in the box below, and I will let you know when that post is written. And feel free to comment below the box.

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