8 recipes inspired by my travels

8 recipes inspired by my travels

Most people would agree that food and travel go hand-in-hand. Some of our finest memories of a journey are tied to a wonderful meal steeped in the cuisine of a land. There is nothing like an authentic cheese fondue on a frigid night in Switzerland or Beijing noodle shared with a table of friends in China.

I have my own take on the dishes I remember, often scouring the pantry and then the Internet for that critical ingredient that must be used. (I’m talking about you, sweet Hungarian paprika). In the end, through trial and error and taste preferences, I am ready to share 8 recipes inspired by my travels. Come with me as we relive some memorable journeys through food.

Cheese souffle

1. France – Cheese soufflé (soufflé au fromage)

My favorite restaurant in Paris, a city of remarkable restaurants, is a place called Le Soufflé. I have been going there for more than 40 years. I might begin with soupe à l’oignon gratinée, then soufflé au fromage. Next comes a savory soufflé, such as cheese, chicken, and mushroom. For the grand finale, we share soufflé chocolat and soufflé Grand Marnier. Yes, four soufflés in one meal.

My humble attempt to duplicate their cheese soufflé actually uses two cheeses from Switzerland – half Gruyere and half Emmental. The secret is to carefully fold the ingredients and not overcook.

Cheese souffle recipe Stephen Henson
Spaghetti sauce

2. Italy – Spaghetti sauce

I’m not ashamed to admit that Italian pasta with a red sauce is my go-to meal anywhere in Italy. It may be because my favorite meal growing up was my mother’s spaghetti sauce. The recipe below has evolved from hers, which was derived from her mother. We lived in rural Illinois, with its rich black soil that to this day produces the finest tomatoes in the U.S. We grew our own, which she canned in mason jars in the summer for creating amazing spaghetti sauce year-round. Italians would approve. Plus, this sauce can be used to make lasagna and other pasta dishes.

Spaghetti sauce recipe Stephen Henson
Cheesecake Basque style

3. Spain – Cheesecake, Basque-style

The Basque region of Spain has its own strong cultural traditions, so it is no surprise that they have a very different version of cheesecake. It is cooked in parchment paper at an extremely high heat and made with only four main ingredients. I love the creamy texture to go with a slight burnt touch. I stole this recipe from my culinary friend, So Young Park.

Cheesecake Basque style recipe Stephen Henson
Paprika Great Market Hall Budapest

4. Hungary – Hungarian goulash

The goulash I ate in Budapest was decidedly more soup-like than my recipe, but I prefer a thicker stew that can be served on noodle or even rice. I also prefer bell peppers to root vegetables. One thing was definitely the same – traditional Hungarian paprika. There is no substitute for the sweet, fragrant spice that transforms this dish. The authentic Szeged brand can be found in the U.S. Mix sweet and hot to taste.

Hungarian goulash recipe Stephen Henson
Chicken pot pie

5. England – Chicken pot pie

There are many theories as to where meat pies originated, but few dispute that the English appropriated this dish a few centuries ago, to be enjoyed by nobles and peasants alike. While my version is more tame than game, it nonetheless hits the mark for the perfect comfort food. I prefer a double crust (made with Crisco for flakiness) baked in a glass or ceramic pie pan.

Chicken pot pie recipe Stephen Henson
Gruyere Switzerland1-81

6. Switzerland – Cheese fondue

The alpine environment invites stick-to-the-ribs food, and I love much of what the Swiss have to offer. From rosti to raclette, I can’t get enough. But nothing takes the place of an authentic cheese fondue, with speared stale bread plunged into the hot delectable mixture. I can close my eyes and be transformed back to the medieval town of Gruyères, where I paired the dish with a local Riesling, leaving stuffed and a little woozy. When preparing this recipe, every ingredient should be Swiss, from Emmental and Gruyère cheese to Riesling to Kirschwasser.

Cheese fondue recipe Stephen Henson
Beijing noodle

7. China – Beijing noodle

So many delightful dishes to be enjoyed throughout China – how to choose one. I will admit I would never try to duplicate favorites, such as Beijing duck. I do prepare dishes such as Sichuan green beans and Kung Pao chicken, but I keep coming back to Beijing noodle. Armed with the proper ingredients, Tian Mian jiang (sweet bean paste) and Shaoxing wine, one can bring back the memories of this simple, tasty treat.

Beijing noodle recipe Stephen Henson
Pumpkin pie

8. United States – Pumpkin pie

America is such a melting pot of cuisines that most of our favorites – pizza, hamburgers, pasta, burritos, etc. – were brought here by immigrants from all over the world. Pumpkins, on the other hand, probably originated in North America and were a staple of Native American diets. A pumpkin pie could have been on the first Thanksgiving dinner table.

The secret to mine is to roast my own pumpkin; I never use canned. This recipe, handed down from my great-aunt June, calls for only two spices – nutmeg and ginger. Careful not to overcook, the result is close to a pumpkin custard.

Pumpkin pie recipe Stephen Henson

Looking for more American recipes based on travel? Check out my Road trip snack recipes, including another New England favorite, cranberry walnut scones.

Any comments or questions? Feel free to leave them in the bottom of this post.

I avoid “best travel” lists

I avoid “best travel” lists

As a rule, I avoid “best travel” lists for several reasons. You should too, and I am about to tell you why. Whether it is a questionable motive, a one-size-fits-all mentality, clickbait, or simple bias, these lists of “The best places to travel this coming year!” aren’t all they’re cracked up to be. It seems every well-known brand, from Lonely Planet to CNN to Travel+Leisure to Vogue, to name a few, publishes a list. You need to create your own.

Cassablanca cartoon Ali

Questionable motive

I launched Kelley Blue Book’s kbb.com and ran it for more than a decade. We used the tagline “The Trusted Resource.” That meant you could be assured there was no ulterior motive to the information we were providing. But, wow, that was a challenge. Many times, I was approached by an auto manufacturer offering to pay us millions of dollars to feature them in some way that was clearly not advertising. We were offered a comparison tool that showed a certain brand in a more favorable light, an offer to modify our site to highlight one manufacturer over its rival, and so on. Some other sites took the money. Believe me, it was a challenge to turn down millions in revenue (and profit) in the name of being a trusted resource for consumers.

Why do I tell this story? Because the same thing happens in the travel industry. Let’s pretend that Casablanca wants to appear on this year’s best places to travel. Casablanca’s tourism bureau is given a significant budget to approach major brands and influencers, offering free trips, advertising dollars, content, and more in turn for favorable positioning. There’s nothing wrong with this. It’s their job to promote Casablanca and all it has to offer tourists. Just remember that the site you are reading or the influencer you are watching may also be promoting Casablanca over some other places that could be more worthy.

Budapest Keleti train station

One-size-fits-all mentality

This is probably the biggest reason I avoid best travel lists. I like destinations that present great photo opportunities. You might seek renowned museums and architecture. Maybe exciting cuisine tops your list for choosing a place. Maybe you are an adventure seeker, a zipliner, a skier, a scuba diver – none of which interest me. Some might want a place with total peace and quiet and others a vibrant urban nightlife. We enjoy travel for so many different reasons it seems fruitless to present “The 10 best places to travel this year!”

Even the way we travel to destinations reflects our individual tastes. Should we explore Europe via a river cruise, by train or rental car? In those cases, the journey becomes as fulfilling as the destinations.

One size does not fit all. I can live with a list from backroads.com of the top places to hike and bike. That is their specialty, and if it fits my lifestyle, I appreciate the help. If I have already made up my mind to cruise Alaska, I can benefit from a list of the best Alaskan cruises. Just don’t say we should all really visit Greece and Indonesia this year (when last year it was Iceland and Turkey).

Schloss Vaduz Liechtenstein 7-78

Clickbait

The lists I really ignore are the ones that seem to exist as clickbait. We have all seen the teaser: “10 best places to travel – number 6 will shock you!” Of course, we all now want to know what number 6 is (probably the place that is paying to be on the list). Resist the temptation to click on videos or posts that are using this way to get your attention.

Rio de Janeiro

Simple bias

In a world of bloggers and vloggers and TikTokers who have honestly not traveled that much, “best travel” lists can reflect simple bias. They really enjoyed that over-water bungalow in the Maldives, so it goes on their list of the world’s top travel places. Have they ever been to Tahiti? Kauai? Bali? The Philippines? Was that bungalow really the best place in the world or the best place they have visited?

I have been to 55 countries and more than 600 cities (I stopped counting), but it still doesn’t qualify me to create a “must visit” list for the world. As much as I like Brazil, I have to admit I know very little about most of South America. Our luxury and adventure Alaskan cruise was exceptional, but would Antarctica have been even better? While travel to 55 countries might sound impressive, another way of looking at it is there are about 140 countries I haven’t visited! That includes Portugal, Peru, and Papua New Guinea, just to name a few that start with “P.”

Lists derived from user input are especially prone to bias. Take the Condé Nast Readers’ Choice Awards. The same names come up year after year because people keep going back to the places they know and like. That’s fine (and informative), but suffers from a form of selection bias.

Sunset Strathcona Alaska Seabourn

Create your own list

It is challenging. Forbes and U.S. News Travel each published a list of “best cruise lines for couples.” They are respected brands, but are all couples alike? Do young honeymooners and retired senior couples want the same exact experience? Are first-time economy cruisers and luxury cruisers on their 50th voyage looking for the same amenities?

My suggestion is to make a list of the things that matter most to you when you think about travel. Use that information to search for a list that narrows the results. A search for “best small-ship luxury cruises for senior couples” at least returns some interesting results, including a video from cntraveler.com entitled “Discover the best small-ship ultra-luxury cruise.” More importantly, there are no articles about Carnival or Royal Caribbean, who don’t specialize in small ships (or true luxury).

Don’t even know where to start? 1,000 Places to See Before You Die, by Patricia Schultz, understands the problem. Think of it as a best list with a thousand entries. That’s enough to get you on the journey of narrowing down what interests you. I also recommend attending a travel show if one comes to a city near you.

A Google search for “best overwater bungalows in Bora Bora” returns a page of exactly that. Now we’re interested in researching further. By the way, Polynesia didn’t make any of the above general best lists. But Uzbekistan and Northwest Michigan did, just to show you how different people are, and why you should avoid those general best travel lists.

Do you have any thoughts about this? Agree? Disagree? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post.

8 travel items just for a cruise

8 travel items just for a cruise

I have been to 56 countries and more than 600 cities, so I know how to pack for a trip. But some recent cruising caused me to purchase 8 travel items just for a cruise. I will quickly share with you the essentials of what to bring and not bring the next time you take to the high seas.

First, some ground rules. Not all cruises are created equal. Obviously, you will need to pack differently for a Caribbean, Mediterranean, or Mexican cruise than the journey to Alaska or Iceland. There will be differences between a budget cruise on a large Carnival ship versus a smaller, luxury experience on Seabourn. I have sailed on everything from Royal Caribbean and Disney to Windstar, and there are travel essentials that apply pretty much to all cruises. Here is my short list:

desk fan for cruise

1. Desk fan, charged via USB

This is one of the best buys for less than $25. Unlike an upscale hotel room, your cabin on a ship, while air-conditioned, may not have a lot of air flow. Solution: a small, lightweight, variable-speed fan. The battery-operated one I bought on Amazon could be charged via USB and easily run all night on a charge, saving a precious outlet (see below). It kept the air moving at night and even provided a little white noise.

power strip power bank for cruise

2. Power strip without surge protection, plus power bank

Cruise ships have a unique situation. First, for whatever reason, there is a lack of outlets for today’s electronic needs. My new Carnival ship had two outlets and two USB ports, but they were across the cabin from the bed. The luxury Seabourn Odyssey features just two outlets, also not that handy. Second, regular power strips with surge protection are not allowed. If you are a couple traveling with laptops, cell phones, iPads, iWatches, etc., you will need more outlets. An inexpensive power strip without surge protection does the job. Of course, don’t forget your portable power bank for ultimate mobility, both in the stateroom and on all-day excursions.

watches for cruise

3. Manual watch

Speaking of iWatches, they are smart enough to change time zones automatically. Unfortunately, sometimes the critically important ship time does not match the real time of your port. One solution is to bring an inexpensive watch you can set manually. You won’t miss the ship at the end of the day. An added benefit is not having to worry about someone stealing your watch. I have a friend who had his Rolex ripped off his wrist in Rio. Only later would the thief discover the Rolex was a $20 fake!

waterproof phone holder for cruise

4. Waterproof phone holder

Speaking of protecting your electronics, many cruise excursions risk getting your smart phone wet. There can be unforeseen hazards, like the need to step off a tender into deep water or that sudden rainstorm from out of nowhere in Alaska. Fortunately, peace of mind is just a $4 purchase away. With my waterproof phone holder from JoJo, I was able to take photos and video without ever removing the phone from its protective plastic pouch.

binoculars for cruise

5. Binoculars

Traveling on a cruise ship affords the advantage of being able to see wildlife, but often at a distance. These days you can bring portable, waterproof, high-powered binoculars that enable upscale viewing on a budget. I bought a pair on Amazon for less than $40. Is that a whale? Is that a bald eagle? Why, yes!

Orsa wine for cruise

6. A bottle of wine

I have journeyed all over the world secure in the knowledge that TSA will confiscate a 750ml bottle of wine in my carry-on. Cruising is a different animal. If you are traveling on a ship that is not all-inclusive, you really ought to consider bringing a bottle of your favorite wine onboard. It is actually encouraged. Don’t forget the corkscrew, if needed.

touchscreen gloves for cruise

7. Touchscreen gloves

If you are on a cold-weather cruise, science has invented the perfect answer for cold hands and an iPhone camera – touchscreen gloves. The ones I bought on Amazon for less than $7 also have little grips, so the phone doesn’t slip while you try to video that whale breaching.

drug store for cruise

8. Items to add to your “drug store”

I am a big proponent of carrying small quantities of medicine and first aid while traveling. I write all about it here: Why carry a drug store in a Ziploc bag? Cruising calls for a few items you wouldn’t necessarily carry elsewhere:

  • Poo-pourri. A small bottle of this stuff actually works for the confined bathroom that may not be well-ventilated.
  • Something for motion sickness. It is a legitimate issue with multiple solutions, from Dramamine to wrist bands.
  • Flushable wet wipes. A package of these has more uses than the obvious.

What you don’t need to bring

I perused a lot of essentials lists before cruising, some with 40 or more items. I don’t think cruising requires so much that is different from other travel. So, skip these:

  • Hair dryer. They are built-in.
  • Night light. Some lists recommend buying a night light. I just use my phone.
  • Alarm clock. I just use my phone.
  • Alcohol. Wine, yes. Booze and beer, no.
  • Weed. No matter the laws of your state or country, you are in international waters now.
  • Magnetic hooks. Yes, the walls of your stateroom may be metal. You also have a closet and drawers. There should be plenty of space to hang things.

 

Do you agree with my list? Do you have your own suggestions to help others? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post.

What’s upscale?

Traveling on a luxury cruise line means so many items are taken care of for you. Want a robe and slippers or you forgot something, just ask.

What’s budget?

You could purchase my entire list for less than $100!

 

 

Upscale travel on a budget

Upscale travel on a budget

This blog is all about upscale travel on a budget. Yet, despite the tips I will provide here and in my other articles, what you choose for luxury and where you decide to save is a very personal thing. These tips are suggestions from my travels to some 55 countries. They are how I manage to enjoy upscale journeys while still keeping an eye on expenditures. If that idea sounds like you, read on for my top 10 tips.

Asiana flight US-Bangkok

1. “Upscale” and “budget” are personal

I have talked to travelers who always fly international economy class, saving money to later spend on hotels, meals, entertainment, etc. That makes sense for them. Not my style. With a bad back in my past, long legs, and little personal “padding,” enduring 14 hours in a coach seat is not tolerable. I opt for upscale lie-flat business class seats. I arrive at my foreign destination refreshed and ready to enjoy the first day. It’s a personal thing.

But that means I might already be thousands of dollars behind others when it comes to budget, and the trip has barely started. So, I have to find other ways to save without compromising the experience.

It’s important that you determine what upscale travel on a budget means to you. Decide while you are researching and planning a trip, not later. What are your memory-makers? You may forever remember the fantastic dinner that cost you hundreds of dollars or you may remember the interesting street food you chose over an expensive restaurant. These are your travel memories. Think about what matters to you!

Bangkok dancers

2. Some outstanding locations are also affordable

Everybody traveling to Europe wants to experience London and Paris – and with good reason. But they can also be quite expensive. Meanwhile, Central European cities, such as Prague, can be wonderful at a much lower price. Research alternative destinations. Consider Budapest instead of Vienna or Madrid instead of Barcelona.

Bangkok is still Asia’s affordable crown jewel. I have stayed many times at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, a Luxury Collection Hotel in the heart of Bangkok, for less than $200 per night (and that even includes one of the finest international buffet breakfasts on the planet). Transportation in Bangkok is cheap, food is cheap, even excellent medical care is cheap (ask me how I know). And yet, you are in an amazing city, with an enchanting culture – the perfect friendly base for visiting the rest of Thailand and Southeast Asia.

Think outside the box – and by box, I mean the usual tourist destinations. In North America, all the tour groups flock to high-priced New York City, Washington D.C., and Hollywood. But you can find history in Charleston, great food in Austin, and a more upscale SoCal experience in Orange County. And discover San Miguel de Allende instead of Mexico City for history, food, and upscale living!

Tuscany Italy near Pienza

3. Stay outside the expensive city

Travelers wanting to experience Switzerland often wind up staying in its most expensive city, Zurich. But the rail system is so excellent in that country that choosing a base such as Luzern or Bern makes a lot more sense. You can take day trips to enjoy Swiss experiences, like Gruyères, Lauterbrunnen, Jungfrau and countless more; then return to a wonderful city that costs less than Zurich (and is easier to navigate).

Florence is delightful and should be visited, but is not your best choice for an extended stay to explore Tuscany (which you should). After a short stay in Florence, we find the medieval city of Montepulciano to be the perfect base for daily road trips throughout the region in our Mercedes-Benz rental. Do your research. We book a beautiful 2-bedroom home for less than the price of a Florence hotel room.

Speaking of Italy, consider staying in charming Verona and visiting Venice as a day trip. The two cities are only just over an hour apart via a comfortable high-speed train.

 

The Paris countryside can also be amazing. The Loire Valley is home to more than 300 châteaux. We have a 14th century mansion practically to ourselves, and we are only 70km from Paris by train.

Emmalani Court condo Princeville Kauai

4. Stay longer in one place and book a vacation rental

In the above examples we were able to explore a region by staying in one place. With that strategy you can begin to look at vacation rentals as an alternative to hotels. Check out sites such as Airbnb and VRBO, but also search for region-specific platforms. For example, if you Google “luxury vacation rentals in Madrid,” you will find sites such as Home Club, Inspirato, Genteel Home, Casa Malasana, Likibu, The Luxury Travel Book, Plum Guide, and more.

Vacation rentals can be very expensive on a short stay due to cleaning and other fixed fees, but spread those costs out across a week and upscale living can be budget living. And now you can prepare some of your meals in your own kitchen, for further savings.

These days, even timeshare properties can be booked like hotel rooms. We stay on Maui at the Westin Ocean Resort Villas instead of a hotel. We use VRBO to discover a wonderful golf course condo in the heart of Princeville, Kauai. You can too!

Zermatt Matterhorn sunrise

5. Take advantage of shoulder season

Families are often restricted to travel when school is out, adding to the burden and price of holiday journeys. If you have the flexibility to travel at other times, by all means, do it. Research when shoulder season occurs at your intended destination – it will be different throughout the world. In some cases, it may mean colder weather or more chance of rain, so check the monthly weather trends as well.

We love to travel in October to Europe and North America. Summer crowds are gone, prices are often much lower, and the weather can still be pleasant. We spend a week in Jackson Hole in October and are delighted to encounter both autumn color and some snow. Rooms at the Four Seasons, for example, can be twice as expensive in the summer and three times as much during ski season.

Zermatt, Switzerland is a haven (and heaven) for tourists to experience breathtaking hiking in the summer and world-class skiing in the winter. We visit in October. The weather is magnificent, the hiking is just as incredible, but the cost of accommodations is much lower.

Areas that are popular with weekend travelers can also switch from upscale to budget pricing for weekday stays. Our Airbnb house in Lake Arrowhead, California is quite reasonably priced for a Monday to Thursday visit in November.

Nokair plane Chiang Mai

6. Check multiple sites for airfare

I usually start with Expedia when checking airfares. You may have your own favorite platform, such as Skyscanner, Kayak, etc. Remember, some airlines are not featured on these providers. If your dates are flexible, make sure to explore that option. Airfares might vary widely, depending on the day of the week.

Once I find a possible flight, I also check the airline’s website. Sometimes my loyalty status will improve anything from ticket price to baggage fees to seat assignment. Then, I usually book directly with the airline. In my experience, if there is a problem later, I would prefer to deal with the airline’s customer service rather than a third party. The last time I actually booked with Expedia was 2013! When my flight out of Chiang Mai, Thailand was canceled, Expedia’s answer was to book me on a flight two days later! Their customer service was of no help. Needless to say, I canceled the ticket and booked my own direct flight out of Chiang Mai later the same day.

Shanghai Meridien view

7. Also check multiple sites for accommodations

Unlike airline third-party sites, the hotel platforms are pretty good. I often use booking.com and have never had a problem. Their “genius” discounts really can save you money. Consider starting your research at Google Travel, which aggregates pricing from multiple sites.

As with airlines, I often wind up booking a room directly with the hotel, especially if my loyalty status kicks in. It can yield me a free breakfast or even a suite. Truth be told, though, loyalty programs are not as valuable as they used to be. It all went downhill when Marriott bought Starwood.

Local guide Vietnam

8. Use local guides to save time and money

It was my first time visiting Vietnam, so I reached out to a local guide group to arrange a car from the Hanoi airport to my hotel. I thought the price, at less than $40, was reasonable. An English-speaking guide accompanied the driver. When we got to my hotel the guide asked me how much time I needed to freshen up before the night’s excursion. What? Yes, that price included the airport transfer, plus a private tour of Hanoi, unlimited street food and beer, and safe return to my hotel. I would go on to use the family-owned Custom Asia Travel each day for Ninh Binh, Tho Ha, and Bai Tu Long Bay. A custom, private experience is truly upscale, but can be achieved on a budget.

I used the same strategy to navigate Myanmar, receiving a great education from a different guide in each region. In Laos, my driver doubled as a guide. We visited lovely Kuang Si Falls, having them to ourselves. On his advice, we skipped the butterfly park, instead stopping to photograph the same butterflies in the wild. It was only when we stopped by his home later in the day that I found out my driver/guide was also the mayor of a district of Luang Prabang!

Moral of the story: immerse yourself in the local culture and experience upscale travel on a budget.

Ziploc drug store

9. Carry your own supplies

My carry-on bag is usually filled half with clothes and half with supplies. I drink coffee first thing in the morning, so I take my own coffee around the world. It beats trying to find a café open at 6:00am or paying 4 Euros for each gulp of expresso.

I also carry a U.S. drugstore in a quart-size Ziploc bag. Try buying eye drops in Cambodia, when all the ingredients are in Khmer and the pharmacist doesn’t speak your language either. In fact, I carry one bag for internal brands (think Alka-Selzer) and one for external (think Neosporin). Convenient, money-saving, and reassuring.

Bangkok BTS subway

10. Zig when others zag

The whole idea of upscale travel on a budget is to figure out what’s important to you – when to splurge and when to conserve. Often it means going against the flow. Like most expats, I used to take a taxi from the Beijing airport to my apartment; then I figured out how to get there via subway at a fraction of the price and time. I do the same in Bangkok. Now, I will always explore that option.

Some people suggest booking a full meal plan at your hotel for convenience. I would rather find a restaurant enjoyed by the locals, almost always with better food at a lower price. The idea is not to follow the crowd. Follow your head and your heart and make your own travel memories.

Do you have any questions? Do you have your own suggestions to help others? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post.

What’s upscale?

Decide for yourself where to splurge. For me, it is business class and comfortable accommodations.

What’s budget?

Public transportation, local guides and cuisine, offseason deals, and more. Do your research.

 

 

Memorable meals from my journeys

Memorable meals from my journeys

Food plays an important role in everyone’s travel memories. In my travel to some 56 countries, I remember many classic meals that expressed the culture as much as any sights did. Paring down the list of memorable meals from my journeys to just 26 entries was as difficult as choosing from Da Dong’s 160-page roast duck menu.

There are going to be wonderful experiences left out. In fact, fewer than a third of the countries I have visited are represented. Some of my favorite cuisines, including pasta in Italy and barbeque in America, are missing. Why? Because there isn’t a remarkable establishment I feel absolutely compelled to return to. The list also excludes items I can prepare even better at home, from my mother’s spaghetti sauce to my Hungarian goulash, which I think is tastier than any I had in Budapest.

And so, in no particular order, here are the memorable meals from my journeys.

Beijing duck

1. Beijing duck . . . Da Dong Roast Duck, Beijing

The truth is, Beijing duck, as prepared in Beijing, may be my favorite meal. I have dined many times at Quanjude, the 7-story restaurant on Hepingmen Street where it all began. It’s very good there, as it should be – they have been serving “Peking duck” since 1864! It’s good at Made in China, but I go there for the Beggar’s Chicken instead. It’s the chefs at Da Dong who have taken Beijing duck to another level. Crispy, juicy, not oily – just perfection, at any of their upscale Beijing locations.

Pizzeria Uno Chicago

2. Chicago deep dish pizza . . . Pizzeria Uno, Chicago

I love pizza and have eaten countless varieties from their birthplace in Naples to New York. It doesn’t matter, because Chicago deep dish pizza redefines this category. And no place is better than the original, Pizzeria Uno. My dad started dining there right after WWII. I was raising a glass in his honor there one time, and at that instant a full glass of beer flipped off a nearby waitress tray. The place holds memories.

Tom Yum Red Curry Duck Bangkok

3. Tom Yum Goong . . . Bangkok

I can’t seem to choose a favorite restaurant in Bangkok for this dish, but nobody outside of Thailand can quite duplicate its deliciousness. Spicy prawn soup with lemongrass, chili, galangal, lime leaves, fish sauce – no wonder yum is in the name.

Le Souffle Restaurant Paris

4. Soufflé, onion soup . . . Le Soufflé, Paris

France is known for soufflés, and no place does them better than Le Soufflé in Paris. Cheese, spinach – I order several; but we always start with the best onion soup gratinée. I have been dining here for more than 50 years and never been disappointed.

Squirrel fish Kung Pao chicken

5. Kung Pao chicken, “squirrel” fish . . . E Mei, Beijing

One of my favorite Beijing restaurants is E Mei, a popular neighborhood establishment near the financial district in the west. I am always the only Caucasian there, ready to sit with Chinese friends and share Gong Bao Ji Ding (Kung Pao chicken with hints of coffee), Songshu Guiyu (a sweet and sour fish shaped like a squirrel), purple yams, and more

Fish and chips Killarney Ireland

6. Fish & chips . . . Quinlan’s, Killarney, Ireland

Nobody does fish & chips quite like the folks in the U.K. We loved the lightly battered ones from Quinlan’s on Killarney’s main street so much, we just kept going back. That’s a sign of a memorable meal, especially when followed by a Guinness.

Tsukiji Fish Market Tokyo

7. Sushi . . . Tsukiji Fish Market, Tokyo

These days, people eat sushi all over the world, even from supermarkets. There is one place on the planet where the fish is the freshest – the famous Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. Tiny establishments ring the world’s largest market. Arrive early in the morning, grab a stool and prepare to be delighted.

Mexican kitchen San Miguel del Allende

8. Best Mexican . . . San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

It’s difficult for me to single out a best Mexican restaurant in this city that sits several hours outside Mexico City and is known for its food. If I had to pick just one, I might choose La Azotea for its unique jicama tacos and its dramatic views. There are 300 restaurants to sample here. If you can’t decide, you can try your own hand at Chef Gaby’s La Fonda Rosa cooking school.

Tea Fortnum and Mason London

9. Afternoon tea . . . Fortnum & Mason, London

Sometimes travel creates a stroke of serendipity. We literally stumbled upon the original Fortnum & Mason while strolling back to our hotel in Mayfair. Afternoon tea here is a delightfully British tradition.

Sichuan comfort food

10. Sichuan “comfort food” . . . South Beauty, Chengdu

There is something special about eating Sichuan food at the source. Even though South Beauty is a chain in China, the Chengdu location is ideal for Dan Dan Mian (noodle), Yu Xiang Qiezi (spicy eggplant), and other succulent dishes.

Chateau Gutsch Luzern Switzerland 6-77

11. Emince de veau . . . Château Gütsch, Luzern

The photo is of the iconic Château Gütsch, which sits high above Luzern, Switzerland. Their dining room setting is perfect for a classic Swiss dish, Emince de veau – tiny pieces of tender veal cooked in a decadent cream sauce on top of noodles.

Lucca Delicatessen San Francisco

12. Best sandwich . . . Lucca Delicatessen, San Francisco

How does a sandwich make the list of memorable meals from my journeys? It’s easy when we keep returning to Lucca Delicatessen in the Marina District of San Francisco. Step to the crowded counter and start pointing. Still-warm Acme sourdough bread? Yes, please. Salami, Mortadella, Swiss cheese, avocado, homemade pickled peppers, red onion, olives, lettuce – are we done yet?

Egg tart in pottery Koh Kret Thailand

13. Egg tarts . . . Koh Kret, Thailand

What exactly are eggs tarts doing in the middle of a post about memorable meals? My excuse is that I love them, from Europe to Macau. And the most memorable ones are baked in their own little clay pottery made here on Koh Kret Island, in Thailand.

Jamon Iberico Spain

14. Jamon Iberico de Belotta . . . Madrid and Barcelona

When my Madrid friend took me into his business conference room and started slicing a leg of ham, I knew I was about to learn something special. The finest ham in the world starts with black Iberico pigs, who graze in pastures of oak trees on the fallen acorns. The hams are then cured for about 4 years. The paper-thin slices of the sweet, nutty goodness are truly a celebration of the noble Spanish pig.

Jiaozi Beijing

15. Jiaozi (dumplings) . . . Beijing

Different regions in China are known for their specialties, and Beijing is the dumpling capital in my book. Especially popular for an inexpensive lunch, I have one friend who would typically eat two dozen for lunch every day. Dip in Chinese vinegar and some chili paste. I have taken several Jiaozi-making classes at The Hutong, but I’m still not very good at it.

Munich bratwurst sauerkraut beer

16. Bratwurst & sauerkraut . . . Hofbrauhaus, Munich

How could something so simple as a meal of sausage and sauerkraut, with either a hard roll and cheese or soft pretzel be so memorable? Those of you who have been to Bavaria know what I’m talking about.

Manda de Laos restaurant daytime Luang Prabang

17. Chicken Hormok . . . Manda de Laos, Luang Prabang

Start with Yam Mak Pee, a banana blossom salad. Follow with Mol Kai, chicken in a red curry sauce with coconut milk and Kaffir lime leaves. Finish with Sangkhaya Makpao, a coconut crème brûlée. I kept returning for the haute cuisine in a hot tropical setting, at Manda de Laos in Luang Prabang, Laos.

South Indian Ragam London

18. Best South Indian . . . Ragam, London

I have not visited India and am no expert when it comes to Indian cuisine. I do know that London has some pretty good South Indian food, thanks to the large ethnic presence there. Our meal at Ragam was definitely memorable.

Water boil fish The Place Beijing

19. “Water boiled fish” . . . The Place, Beijing

Shui Zhu Yu in Mandarin means water boiled fish. The dish is so much more. You are shown your live fish, which they gently boil, then place in a pot of hot oil that is infused with hua jiao, the Sichuan peppercorns that literally numb your mouth (in a good way). This is another taste sensation that is difficult to duplicate outside of China.

Bouys Ptown Mass

20. Lobster & fried clams . . . Gloucester House, Mass

Unfortunately, I am allergic to most hard-shell seafood, including oysters, mussels, and clams. Fry those clams, and I’m back at the table. Add a boiled 1-pound lobster just pulled out of the Atlantic, and I’m in heaven. The name of heaven is Gloucester House, in the harbor of Gloucester, Massachusetts.

Hanoi street food

21. Street food . . . Hanoi, Vietnam

No list of memorable meals would be complete without an entry for street food. Hanoi is where Anthony Bourdain and President Obama sat down on little blue stools and ate spring rolls with local beer. They filmed it in May, 2016, two years after my many similar meals on the streets of Hanoi, home of the best street food on the planet.

Le Relais de Venise Paris

22. Steak & fries . . . Le Relais de Venise, Paris

Is it the best steak I have ever eaten? No. The best unlimited fries? Maybe not. So why is the wait to get into Le Relais de Venise, in Paris, often an hour? Because it is the most memorable entrecôte and pommes frites in the most memorable setting in the most memorable city.

Xiao Long Bao

23. Xiao Long Bao . . . Din Tai Fung, Shanghai

There is a 100-year-old saying, “often imitated, never duplicated.” That is appropriate for Din Tai Fung’s version of the famous Chinese pork soup dumpling. First, poke a hole with your chopstick to let the steam out of this delicate indulgence; then enjoy in one bite. The good news is that Din Tai Fung has been able to duplicate this treat at its restaurants around the world, although nothing beats the Shanghai location.

Cheese fondue

24. Cheese fondue . . . Gruyères, Switzerland

Cheese fondue has to be one of the most misunderstood dishes in the world. Cheap varieties have populated menus, even created chains. Believe me, nothing comes close to the authentic fondue served in this medieval town that is the home of Gruyères cheese. Blended with Emmenthal and other secret ingredients, served with big cubes of French bread, bubbling over an open flame. It warms my soul just thinking about it.

Wilkes House Savannah Georgia

25. Fried chicken . . . Mrs. Wilkes, Savannah, Georgia

Who doesn’t love southern fried chicken? The most memorable versions are from the U.S. southern states. For me, that means a trip to Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room, where it is served “all you can eat,” with all the fixins.

Ipe Restaurant Iguazu Falls Brazil

26. Best pastry buffet . . . Ipê, Iguazu Falls, Brazil

For a person with a sweet tooth, this was a tough category. How could I pass over the pastries of Vienna? In short, the desserts of Brazil are made with a heavy dose of sweetened condensed milk, for which I have a weakness. So, I indulge on flan that tops Mexico, crème brûlée to rival France, out-of-this-world chestnut souffle, and more.

 

Do you have any questions? What are your most memorable meals? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post.

What’s upscale?

A few of the restaurants could be pricey, such as Da Dong.

What’s budget?

Most of these meals come with quite reasonable prices, proving you don’t need to spend a fortune to create a lasting memory.

 

 

10 tips for great travel photos of people

10 tips for great travel photos of people

It’s not difficult to take great travel photos of people, even using your phone’s camera. Years ago, I used to avoid having people in scenic pictures of foreign lands. Now, I have found that people can bring perspective to nature, a cultural angle, and most importantly, help tell the story of my photo.

I will explain how to capture motion and emotion, work and play, silhouettes and selfies, composition, angles, and more. Soon you will be taking better photos and creating lasting memories.

Farmer woman with scythe Austria

1. People can give perspective

I love pictures of mountains and natural settings, but sometimes adding a person helps. The farming woman with her scythe for cutting hay completes the story for the Austrian countryside above. Her location turns out to be perfect for the composition too. Using the “rule of thirds,” she creates balance, with your eye on her for the bottom third, the river and village in the middle, and mountain at the top.

Angkor Wat Cambodia

You can immediately see how nature has taken over this temple in Angkor Wat, Cambodia, but adding the little girl captures the perspective of just how large these tree roots are. Also, by using a local Cambodian child (with permission), it makes the photo more authentic than a selfie.

Charlotte Ye Broad Museum Los Angeles

Take the person out of this photo, and you have a strange picture of a table and chairs. Add the person (a good selfie opportunity), and you have a unique contemporary art exhibit at the Broad Museum in Los Angeles. How much better is this photo than if she were just standing in the museum’s gallery?

Motor scooter Hanoi Vietnam

2. Capture motion in a still shot

Everybody has taken a sports photo, maybe a surfer at the top of a wave or a child leaping to catch a ball. But taking travel pictures of people doing everyday things can also make excellent use of motion.

It seems like everyone in Hanoi, Vietnam is on a scooter these days, so I wanted a shot to represent that. The world’s largest ceramic mosaic mural also lines a major street there. I had my driver pull next to this mother and daughter and maintain their speed as a snapped a photo. Voila! Now a still shot tells a moving story.

Metro hallway Paris

Even something as simple as this photo inside the Paris metro is enhanced by slowing the shutter speed, so there is a certain blur of motion from people who are just walking. And yes, you can do that with an iPhone too.

 

Betel quid woman Myanmar

3. Posed pictures should tell a story

Sometimes it just makes sense to have a person be the focal point of a picture, even when traveling. When possible, try to think about what the story is behind the pose. The old woman above was a vendor in a Myanmar market. People in the countryside there are also known for smoking betel quid, a nut so nasty it is illegal in the U.S. One of its less severe effects is staining the teeth deep red. So, when I asked to take her picture, I wanted to wait until she had cigar in hand and mouth open. Now, the story of my travels is told.

1000 Places Patricia Schultz and Charlotte Ye

Patricia Schultz is a travel writer. One of the times we met her, we wanted her to pose for a picture. Rather than a simple head and shoulders shot, we incorporate a blow-up of her famous book. The result tells the story of her work.

Candied hawthorn Beijing

We have hosted many Americans making their first trip to China. When they ask for pictures, we always try to tell a story instead of just lining them up in front of some monument. In the case above, we capture these two couples trying one of Beijing’s most popular street foods, candied hawthorn (tanghulu). This photo creates a real travel memory for them. You can do the same if you remember to tell a story!

Boys and painting Beijing 798 Art District

4. Shoot from different angles

The tips above all have the subject facing the camera, but often the better travel photo is taken from a different angle.

I took two pictures of these twin boys visiting Beijing’s 798 Art District; one facing me and the above shot. I much prefer this photo from behind, where you feel them being drawn in by the little girl in the painting. In fact, your focus of attention changes from the boys faces to the girl.

Shanghai Auto Show

It’s obvious that the normal angle for this photo shoot at the Shanghai Auto Show would be to join the throng of professional photographers. I chose a different angle and got not only the car, but a better feel of the show itself.

Children video game Luang Prabang Laos

Too often photos of people are taken from adult eye level. Try mixing things up, like crouching down to the level of a child. In this picture from Luang Prabang, Laos, I hover above the kids. I’m looking down on the action, as they are. This photo is mostly hands and backs of heads, but it does a good job of capturing children at play.

San Francisco Jazz Center

5. Make use of silhouettes and natural lighting

In the photo above, I wanted to capture the wonderful jazz artists portrayed on the building across from the San Francisco Jazz Center. These two men were engrossed in the artists as well. Since I don’t know the men, I simply used their silhouettes to tell the story. I think the photo of the building is better with them in it.

Performer San Miguel de Allende Mexico

Most people would take a picture of this San Miguel de Allende, Mexico performer from the front. By going behind him to create a silhouette, I get the spirit of the performance; but I also capture the whole scene – audience, Christmas tree, cathedral.

Don George Bangkok TBEX

I rarely take flash photography these days because digital cameras are so good at recreating natural light, even at night. Gone are the days of the obtrusive flash. Turn it off, and trust your camera – even your iPhone. I was able to take this nighttime photo of travel writer, Don George, as he met a dignitary in Bangkok, without a bothersome flash.

Goats Zermatt Switzerland

6. Use people as a secondary focus

I used to wait for people to get out of a travel picture. Now, I sometimes wait to include them. These blackneck goats go right down Bahnhofstrasse in Zermatt, Switzerland each day. That’s what your eye might see when you first glance at this photo. But the scene is enhanced by including a family in their traditional hiking garb, a reminder that this is, after all, the Alps.

Elephant seals Cambria California

Where do you look first in the above photo? Is it the woman gazing at the ocean on her trip to Cambria, California? Or surprise, a beach full of elephant seals! The picture is enhanced by having both subjects (but neither is posing). Nature and people can go together if you are smart about it.

Forbidden City child Beijing

7. Photograph people in meaningful backgrounds

I must have hundreds of pictures of the Forbidden City in Beijing, but the above is my favorite. I took it in 2005, during China’s one-child policy. So, it was not uncommon to see a little child playing alone, only comforted by sucking her thumb. The faded paint in this remote corner of the Forbidden City creates almost a watercolor feel as well. For me, this is one picture that tells a thousand words.

Arnado McGlaughlin Chapel of Jimmy Ray Mexico

Artist Arnado McLaughlin makes his Mexican home in his creation, the Chapel of Jimmy Ray. Rather than a posed picture, I asked him to go about his daily routine and captured this shot in front of one of his amazing mosaics. Both the person and background are meaningful.

Child at Beijing Paralympic Games

Attending the 2008 Paralympic Games in Beijing was a special travel experience, and I took some photos of the newly-built Olympic stadium or “Bird’s Nest.” Placing this child (with permission), dressed in a Chinese outfit adorned with flags, in front of the stadium immediately makes her and the background meaningful.

Thailand King Bhumibol Adulyadej - Stephen Henson

8. Use selfies to create a travel memory

You visit this beautiful waterfall. Go ahead a take a selfie for your own benefit; but don’t expect others to appreciate your head obscuring the scenery. Just like I have been saying throughout, use photography to tell a story – selfies included.

I was in Bangkok, Thailand when their beloved king died. A memorial was erected to depict stages of his life, including his love of photography, starting as a young prince. Feeling a kindred spirit, I thought a picture of myself holding a simple camera would be a fitting tribute. It’s a travel memory that will stay with me.

Pico Iyer - Stephen Henson

When I met the incomparable travel author Pico Iyer for the first time, we decided on a photo together. I suggested we use this small library of books as a background. Taking less than a minute to get in position created a picture that also tells a story of an author and lover of books.

Stephen Henson - Charlotte Ye Lijiang China

Often journeys take place with a group of friends. It can be a challenge to get a group photo. I tell the person (usually a stranger) who is taking the picture to take a wide shot to capture both the group and the key travel location. I can always later crop out the extraneous people, light poles, etc. In the above photo you have a happy selfie of five, with the breath-taking backdrop of Zhang Yimou’s production at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in China. Memory secured.

Stephen Henson outrigger canoe Maui

Travel is fun. Selfies should show you having a good time, such as on this outrigger canoe on Maui. Note how our group leaned left and right to get into the frame. You might also note that none of the selfies I have featured here were taken by me holding my iPhone. I am a little old-school, in that I think asking a stranger to take my photo nearly always produces better results than a picture literally within my arm’s length.

U Bein Bridge Mandalay Myanmar

9. Capture people in everyday settings

Not every travel photo has to be a monument, mountain stream, or sunset at the beach. If you truly want travel memories, snap lots of shots of people in their everyday life of work or play.

U Bein is a historic bridge in Mandalay, Myanmar, built in 1850. Look closely to see how my photo captures current typical family life in this region just by the people on this bridge. Every picture can tell a story.

Butcher shop Monte Carlo 7-78

I like to take pictures in far-away markets, with all the local fruits, vegetables, and meats. This scene from Monte Carlo is only enhanced when adding a local proprietor and his customer. Believe it or not, I shot it more than 40 years ago!

Rice paper making Ninh Binh Vietnam

I have so many photographs of people at work and play in Vietnam, it’s difficult to choose from among the farmer in a rice paddy, the old lady carrying bananas on a bicycle, to this home that I visited in Ninh Binh. Trying my hand at rice paper making with the mom proves that it’s people as much as places that make travel memories.

10. Experiment and take lots of pictures

I might return from a trip, look at my photos, and wonder why did I not take a panorama shot? How come they are all stills and no videos? Some of us who go back to the days of film and our own darkrooms (ok, me) might have a tendency to painstakingly compose the best shot instead of just taking several and later deleting the bad ones.

Speaking of later, there are plenty of easy-to-use tools on your laptop or apps on your phone for editing and special effects. Personally, I mostly use basic tools to straighten or crop a photo. Get rid of unwanted people so the focus in on the people you care about.

Beijing hutong old man woman

In the photo above I was struck by the juxtaposition of the old man still living in a Beijing hutong and the younger woman who might be breaking out of that life. Their expressions are the same, though. To make this point I decided to turn the picture into old-looking black and white, then let her emerge in color. The lesson here is to experiment and see what you like best. After all, travel is fun and so is taking pictures!

Do you have any questions or tips of your own? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post.

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