Most information you read about Jackson Hole, Wyoming speaks to traveling there in the summer for pleasant weather or winter for skiing. I think the best idea might be to visit Jackson Hole in October, for pretty autumn colors, good prices, and above all, no crowds!

Locals call April and May the mud season, because the snowmelt creates miserable hiking and biking conditions. They say October starts the off-season. By late in the month the weather has turned cold, the leaves on the aspens are gone, and a snowstorm or two is likely, but not enough to open the ski resorts. Many restaurants close until December, when the tourists return in droves. But early October can be ideal.

First, what you won’t experience in October

If you have this strong desire for a winter wonderland that the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort certainly represents, you need to wait until Christmas. Teton Village, with its aerial trams and ski runs are eerily quiet in October. There are no sleigh rides or dog sled rides until more snow falls.

If you have come to Jackson Hole to hike and bike among wildflowers or to pretend you are in the old west with a good old fashioned chuck wagon or rodeo experience, then summer is the time for you. Plenty of activities cater to the warm weather tourist.

Ah, but that is the problem. So much is aimed at the summer and winter visitor that the result is crowded restaurants, traffic jams, and the highest prices and lowest availability of lodging.

Wander around the Town Square area day or night

In the center of Jackson Hole is a delightful town square surrounding by shops of all kinds, scores of interesting galleries, and most of the best restaurants in the region. They are all open in early October, but you can actually find street parking that is scarce in high season months.

Our favorite gallery is Mangelsen Images of Nature. Arguably the country’s most legendary nature photographer, Tom Mangelsen has spent considerable time in Yellowstone and its environs. This was his first gallery, opened more than 40 years ago in a homey three-story building. Linger here and get inspired for your hikes and tours and pictures to come.

Our favorite places to eat in town

The gentrification of Jackson Hole over the years has drawn creative chefs and produced hundred of dining choices. Here is our take:

Best breakfast. Café Genevieve is a tiny place right off Town Square that is extremely popular with both locals and tourists. Their bakery items are to die for, along with creative breakfast and brunch entrees. I don’t normally care for quiche, but theirs was the best I have had in my life. We tried out Café Genevieve one morning and returned every day after that!

Best dinner. We stumbled upon Glorietta Trattoria in search of an early dinner. It looked inviting. Then we walked in and saw most of the tables empty. I joked that maybe they were all reserved. No joke. They were. All we could do is snatch the last two seats at the bar. I’m glad we did. We dined on multiple creative Italian pasta dishes, intoxicating wine, and fascinating conversation with a few locals. Jackpot!

Second-best dinner. There were a lot of candidates for this crown. The Snake River Grille and Orsetto were recommended, but we didn’t get there. Our hotel’s restaurant, Wild Sage, is considered one of the best in town for dinner, but we only ate breakfast there (which was good). The choice here is Gather, which was an Iron Chef winner a few years ago. You see bison wandering around in Yellowstone, so a trip to Jackson Hole would not be complete without trying Bison steak. It was okay, but there are better entrees here.

Best casual dining. You may tire of Western food every day, but there are pretty limited options here for Asian cuisine. The best bet is Noodle Kitchen. Finally, for late-night cravings or family dining, try the tastiest pizza in town at Pinky G’s.

Let’s go hiking. Start easy at the Rockefeller Reserve.

Restaurants and spas are nice, but you came to Jackson Hole for the great outdoors, and it doesn’t disappoint. I suggest beginning your exploration at the Jackson Hole & Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center, an interagency facility. Besides a plethora of visitor brochures and exhibits, you will find both maps and expert human advice on where to go. It’s located on the north end of town in the National Elk Refuge

We choose a non-strenuous walk, starting at the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve. It is located just south of the Moose entrance to Grand Teton National Park. We take the trail to Phelps Lake, a route that follows a rocky stream and vegetation that ranges from green pines to golden aspens to red bushes. Throw in our first light snowfall for all the colors of the rainbow.

More Grand Teton: hiking String Lake and Leigh Lake

By venturing further north through Grand Teton National Park the scenery just keeps getting more beautiful. On another day we drive past Jenny Lake to the String Lake trail. It’s another easy hike, following a clear path without much change in elevation. There is a change in the weather, as lovely big snowflakes create a magical atmosphere.

Whether you enjoy hiking or not, make sure you have rented a car to drive through Grand Teton National Park. A suggested route would be to take Highway 191 north to the park’s Moran entrance. Then take Teton Park Road south to Jenny Lake and continue south to the Moose entrance, where you will rejoin 191. Note: this road is closed due to snow from November to May, another reason why early October is an exceptional time to visit. This route offers some of the most scenic views of the Grand Teton peaks, with reflective lakes and beautiful forests.

We admire String Lake so much we hike it a second day, including some nice views across Leigh Lake that had been obscured by the snowfall on our previous walk. It’s worth mentioning that you are in the great outdoors and sharing it with red squirrels and other wildlife. And, of course, that could include bears, which is why we carry bear spray. I’m told we might have about 10 seconds to protect ourselves in the event of an encounter, and I’m not confident I am that fast of a draw. Fortunately, the only bears we saw were from the safety of our car during a drive through the woods.

Yes, you should visit Yellowstone

Jackson Hole is the gateway to Yellowstone National Park. That doesn’t mean you can just hop in your rental car and spend the morning checking it out. Yellowstone is huge. At 3,472 square miles, it is larger than the states of Delaware and Rhode Island – combined. And just getting there is about a 5-hour round trip. But, for first-time visitors, to stay in Jackson Hole and not experience Yellowstone is a missed opportunity.

Arguably one of America’s most famous National Parks, Yellowstone deserves its own post, so I will keep this brief.

Fortunately, there are several tour companies that offer day trips featuring Old Faithful and other geysers, as well as what is called the Yellowstone Lower Loop drive. The string of “greatest hits” is amazing, including the colorful Artists Paintpots and Yellowstone’s Grand Canyon, with its magnificent waterfalls.

I did a lot of research before choosing Wildlife Expeditions from Teton Science Schools, a non-profit organization that runs schools and community programs, as well as small wildlife tours. We opted for an all-day (about 12 hours) small group tour in a comfortable safari-type Mercedes-Benz van with an expert naturalist guide. And here is more good news about visiting in October – we were the only people signed up that day, making it a private tour for us!

Don’t forget to just wander and explore

If our hotel, spa, and Yellowstone tour were “upscale,” then spending some days just wandering around this part of Wyoming was the “on a budget” experience. We drove west on Highway 22 through the Teton Pass for breathtaking scenery.

We drove north on Highway 191 past Moose Junction onto Antelope Flats Road. Why? This area is home to Mormon Row, a grouping of old structures, including the much-photographed Moulton Barn. The Andy Chambers Homestead, pictured here in a light snowfall, gave us a magical sense of time standing still – remembering early settlers coexisting with nature. At the end of the day, whether you are stargazing or relaxing by a fire, nature is what Jackson Hole is all about.