Nearly 8 million people live in the California’s Bay Area, and when they think of a trip to wine country it usually means Napa Valley. A road trip to Orsa wines in Mendocino County may just change that thinking. Amazing, affordable wines, strawberry fields, apple orchards, ancient redwoods, and quaint towns with fewer tourists can be found less than 2 hours from San Francisco.
What differentiates the wines of Mendocino from their more famous neighbors in Napa and Sonoma? Well, before we answer that – a disclaimer. We are not wine snobs. In fact, we are still near the front end of the steep learning curve about viticultural mesoclimates, soil mineral content, and tannins. We just know what we like to drink and hope it is affordable. The wines of this region deliver on that wish.
The 100-mile drive up Highway 101 from San Francisco lands us in the little hamlet of Hopland in about 1 1/2 hours. Don’t blink or you might miss downtown. Its highlights are the restored Victorian Thatcher Hotel, The Golden Pig restaurant, Country Porch Antiques, a marijuana dispensary, and the post office.
Of course, these are not the region’s main attractions. Just across the border from Sonoma County the landscape opens up to rolling hills at the foot of the Mendocino Ranges. The Russian River winds its way toward the Pacific and groves of redwoods. But mostly this fertile land is full of grape vines, and that means wineries.
The Orsa and Topel wine story
Duncan Springs is a dusty road that snakes up the side of a mountain, past an occasional deer, some abandon homes, a few inhabited ones, and finally to the home of Orsa and Topel wines.
In 1989, the Topel family discovered that the 160-acre setting was perfect for growing wine grapes. At 1,400 feet of elevation, it sits above the Russian River fog lines, flanked to the west by Duncan Peak and the Alexander Valley below to the south. They planted only 15 prime vineyard acres, leaving the rest of the property to nature.
For about 30 years the family produced Cabernet, Chardonnay, and other estate wines with high quality and limited quantity. Then, in 2019, a new owner and winemaker stepped in. In 2021, Orsa wines was born.
The branding is a little complicated for us novices. The estate wines, produced exclusively from the 9 separate “blocks” within the vineyard and partner heritage vineyards, are labelled Alta Orsa. “Alta” is Latin for high, deep rooted. “Orsa” is Latin for beginning, undertaking. Wines labelled Orsa are appellation wines, blended from the vineyard and other Mendocino and Sonoma grapes produced with similar methods. And Topel is still available as a legacy wine.
Learning more about Orsa wines
The complex soil of the vineyard is composed mostly of weathered shale and sandstone, making it a challenge to grow vines. But there is good news: the soil is great for drainage. And even better news: the vigorous vines that survive can support more fruit, with extraordinary color and flavors.
The sloping vines are planted too close together to enable tractors to be used between rows. Everything is done by hand, with minimal organic sprays and no herbicides under the vine.
Shoot thinning is taking place by hand during our stay, with the goal to allow the right amount of airflow and light penetration. The result is two shoots per spur, resulting in the right amount of fruit to keep the vines in balance. We come to the conclusion that every phase of winemaking is clearly both science and art.
This is farming, so weather also plays its role. Grape vines love warm, sunny days and cool nights. It is one of the reasons that northern California can produce such great wines, while much of the world can’t. Our mountainside location does not disappoint. The time we spend here sees the temperature reach the 90s F during the sunny days, dropping to 50 degrees at night. The grapes love it more than we do.
Spending time with the winemaker, Martin Bernal-Hafner, on a private tour enables us to truly appreciate the effort that goes into quality wine on a small scale. Martin apprenticed in France’s Rhône Valley at the legendary Hermitage wines. His journey continued in Argentina before moving to California, under the tutelage of Paul Hobbs. One can sense his respect for the vineyards as we walk together. Alta Orsa is special, in part because of the experience of the dedicated small team behind it.
A discount on Orsa wines
If you can’t make the road trip, you can still order Orsa and Topel wines online at Orsawines.com/wines. We fall in love with Hillside Cuvée, a reasonably priced, smooth, velvety red wine. And we have never tasted a Rose wine that we liked until discovering Orsa Rosé of Pinot Noir. What can we say? It is light, crisp, and delicious. Sorry, we can’t wine-speak about things like “notes of roses and apples.” We just like it. Other wines, such as the Cabernet Sauvignon, are excellent too.
Now the great news! You can get a 10% discount when you use a special discount code available only to the readers of Journeys With Stephen. Apply the code JOURNEYS at checkout for the 10% discount and $10 flat shipping when you order 3 or more bottles. Note: We do not profit from this offer. It is just an incentive for you to try these wines!
From strawberries to ancient redwoods
Our road trip to Mendocino County was more than just a visit to Orsa wines. The nearby region has numerous wineries. Terra Sávia, on Mountain House Road, produces not only organic wines, but premium olive oil from several thousand olive trees they brought in from Tuscany.
Continue up Highway 101 toward Ukiah and you can’t miss the Nelson Family Vineyards, family owned and operated since 1951. The 2,000-acre ranch even grows Christmas Trees. The highlight for us in May is strawberry season at its peak. The adjacent fields, run by a friendly couple who immigrated from Laos, produce delectable hand-picked strawberries, onions, peas, and more.
Just south of Ukiah, take CA-253 west to Boonville. The famous 17-mile drive may be in Monterey, but this 17-mile winding road from the Mendocino ridge down to the Anderson Valley is also spectacular. Just watch out for redwood logging trucks, who are determined to take the well-maintained curves faster than our Tesla.
From Boonville, head northwest on CA-128 through Philo to Hendy Woods State Park. Here you have reached two protected groves of redwoods. Some trees are more than 300 feet tall and 1,000 years old. And they are highly accessible via the flat, easy trails. On a weekday in May, we have this towering forest practically to ourselves. The Discovery Trail is a picturesque loop that can be walked in under an hour, with more trails branching off from it.
These giants can withstand floods, winds, and even fire (some trees are scarred). When they do fall, they continue to support the forest ecosystem. In fact, at one point a fallen redwood stump was home to a man known as the Hendy Woods Hermit. We find the fallen trees as interesting as the live ones.
From apples to small-town America
Without stops, the entire drive from Hopland to Hendy Woods can be made in about 45 minutes. But you will want to stop. Another diversion is Gowan’s Oak Tree, a roadside stand just south of Hendy Woods. A wide selection of apples direct from their farm is the highlight. Wash down the tasty apples and other fruits and goodies with cold cider.
On your return to Highway 101, head north a few miles into Ukiah. With its tree-lined downtown, Ukiah was once named the best small town in California (and 6th best in the U.S.). Start at the courthouse, stroll the surrounding neighborhood, and you feel like you have returned to the mid-1900s. No chain stores here. Triple S Camera, Shoefly & Sox, Mendocino Book Company, Hometown Store Kitchen, Dragon’s Lair, Mendocino Barkery (yes, for dogs), Bead Fever – the list of unique, quaint establishments goes on and on.
By now you should be hungry for dinner. If so, we highly recommend Cultivo. This restaurant, serving local farm to fork cuisine, has its roots in wood-fired pizza. Now you can enjoy it all. We share an exquisite shrimp, calamari, and fresh vegetable starter before our pizza. It’s the perfect ending to the day’s road trip.
Final thoughts
San Francisco to Hopland and back can be navigated as a long day trip. For a weekend, add in the Hendy Woods/Ukiah adventure. If you have extra days, more of the richness of Mendocino County awaits your exploration.
It’s easy to purchase wine from a grocery store or big box wine store these days. They have a plethora of choices in all price ranges. Sometimes they try to influence you with very subjective wine ratings. But learning about a wine directly from the winemaker, visiting its origins, and sampling different vintages can provide a special connection to the wine you want to drink. A road trip to wine country can bring peace of mind and a gratifying experience.
Do you have any questions? Have you tasted wines in Mendocino County? Feel free to comment at the bottom of this post.
What’s upscale?
Become a member of the Alta Orsa wine club and receive numerous benefits, including a stay at their Mountain Top Retreat cabin.
What’s budget?
Readers of this blog are eligible for a 10% discount at Orsa wines using the code JOURNEYS at checkout.
